Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [417]
The trip ends at the company’s private dock on the southern edge of the village.
Warning
There have been thefts from the buses that ply the route between Cariari and La Pavona – and a reported armed mugging. Keep important belongings with you and stash your cash in several places. Likewise, be wary of ‘guides’ that solicit you for tours on the bus – since many of these folks aren’t always who they claim to be.
During the peak of the turtle nesting season, we recommend purchasing your tickets at least one day in advance. Many of the information centers sell these. If you are traveling to San José, you are better off taking a 6am boat because bus connections are better earlier in the day.
Transportation schedules and fares for Tortuguero change regularly. Inquire locally before setting out.
To/From Moín
Moín–Tortuguero is primarily a tourist route – and while boats ply these canals frequently, there isn’t a scheduled service. The following two Tortuguero-based agencies make the run regularly; both of these can stop in Parismina (one-way US$25):
Tropical Wind (8313-7164, 2798-6059, 8327-0317; per person one-way US$30)
Viajes Bananeros (2709-8005; per person one-way US$35)
Likewise, you can always call the companies operating out of Puerto Limón, since they frequently have boats in the area.
Note: it may take at least 24 hours to secure transport – especially in the low season.
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BARRA DEL COLORADO
At 904 sq km, including the frontier zone with Nicaragua, Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Barra del Colorado, or ‘Barra’ for short, is the biggest national wildlife refuge in Costa Rica. It is also one of the most remote – and it just got more so since both of the country’s commercial airlines suspended service to the area in 2009. This means that the only way to get to Barra is to take the local bus-boat transport from Cariari or arrange a charter flight from San José.
The area has long been a favorite of sportfishers who arrive to hook gar, tarpon and snook, and hole up in one of the area fishing lodges. But those who aren’t into fishing will be rewarded with incredible landscape. The Ríos San Juan, Colorado and Chirripó all wind through the refuge and out to the Caribbean Sea – through a soggy wetland habitat made up of marshes, mangroves and lagoons. Here, you’ll find West Indian manatees, caiman, monkeys, tapirs and three-toed sloths, plus a riotous bird population that includes everything from keel-billed toucans to white hawks. There are countless species of waterbird.
The northern border of the refuge is the Río San Juan, the border with Nicaragua (many local residents are Nicaraguan nationals). This area was politically sensitive during the 1980s, due to the Nicaraguan conflict. Today, however, it is possible to journey north along the Río Sarapiquí and east along the Río San Juan, technically entering Nicaragua (see boxed text).
Note: while Costa Ricans have right of use, the San Juan is Nicaraguan territory. Carry your passport when you are out fishing.
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Orientation & Information
The village of Barra del Colorado lies near the mouth of the Río Colorado and is divided by the river into Barra del Norte and Barra del Sur. The airstrip is on the south side of the river, but more people live along the north side. The area outside the village is swampy and there are no roads; travel is almost exclusively by boat.
A couple of pulperías (corner grocery stores) and a souvenir shop alongside the landing strip sell basic food supplies and dry goods. There is a public phone and patchy internet access. The Servicio de Parques Nacionales (SPN) maintains a small ranger station (6am-6pm; refuge admission US$10, 60-day freshwater fishing license US$30) west of the village, in Barra del Sur. However, there are no facilities here. Bring exact change to pay for your entry fee as the rangers rarely have change.
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Activities
Fishing is the bread and butter of area lodges and anglers go for tarpon from January to June and