Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [418]
All of the lodges can also organize custom wildlife-watching excursions along mangroves, lagoons and canals (from US$40).
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Sleeping & Eating
From the airport, only Tarponland Cabinas and Río Colorado Lodge is accessible on foot. Other lodges will have a boat waiting when you arrive with prior reservation.
GETTING TO SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA
Day trips along the Río San Juan and some offshore fishing trips technically enter Nicaraguan territory. Carry your passport and US$10, in the unlikely event that you are stopped and checked.
If you are planning to head further into Nicaragua, you can make arrangements with your lodge for a water taxi (per person US$60) to take you to the border town of San Juan del Norte – now called San Juan de Nicaragua (formerly Greytown). It’s a tranquil village, with few services, but an interesting history. (At various times over the centuries, it has been under the control of Miskito people, Spanish colonists, British troops and even US Marines. Much of it was destroyed during the Contra-Sandinista conflict of the 1980s.)
This is a little-used border crossing, however, so don’t make the trip without first checking in with Costa Rican immigration officials in San José (2299-8100) or Puerto Limón (2758-2097). Barra del Colorado does not have an immigration office of its own, so you might have to secure an exit stamp prior to arriving there.
In San Juan, Río Indio Lodge (2231-4299, 2220-3594/3596; www.therioindiolodge.com; d per person incl meals US$168; ) has 34 spacious polished-wood rooms, a restaurant and bar. Fishing is the forte, but you can also go hiking or kayaking.
San Juan is linked to the rest of Nicaragua by irregular passenger boats sailing up the Río San Juan to San Carlos, on the Lago de Nicaragua.
Tarponland Cabinas (8818-9921; r US$30, r with sportfishing, food & lodging US$300; ) This is as far as budget lodgings go in Barra. Situated right next to the airstrip, just a few dozen meters from the dock, a brightly painted building has worn wood rooms with private hot showers. An adjacent restaurant and bar is a local gathering spot and a good place for fish casados (mains from ₡2500).
Río Colorado Lodge (2232-4063, in USA 800-243-9777; www.riocoloradolodge.com; d per person with/without fishing US$475/120; ) Built in 1971, this 18-room lodge is housed in a rambling tropical-style building connected by covered walkways. Rooms are breezy and there is a pool table, an outdoor deck with satellite TV and afternoon happy hours. Situated within walking distance of the landing strip, near the mouth of the Río Colorado, it attracts a local crowd at the bar, which has earned it a reputation as a ‘party lodge.’ Rates include meals.
Silver King Lodge (2711-0708, in USA 877-335-0755; www.silverkinglodge.net; 3-day package per person from US$2050; ) This excellent sportfishing lodge caters to couples and families. Huge hardwood rooms have cane ceilings, colorful tapestries and lots of amenities. Outside, covered walkways lead to a large swimming pool (complete with waterfall). Bounteous meals are served buffet-style and an open-air bar whips up tropical drinks. The lodge closes in July and December; rates include fishing and meals.
Casa Mar Lodge (in USA 800-543-0282; www.casamarlodge.com; r per person US$585, 5-night package per person from US$2500) A pleasant 2.8-hectare garden is dotted with deluxe, bright turquoise wood cabins that come equipped with tiled hot showers. Rates include fishing, meals, open bar, all gear and daily laundry service. There is an onsite tackle shop.
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