Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [421]
A new greenhouse space filled with a lush garden, Ranario (8:30am-3:30pm; admission US$8; ) has 14 species of native frog hopping around on the loose. (No cages here.) Admission includes a guided tour – a necessity, since guides know where the frogs like to hide.
At the northwest end of Cahuita, Playa Negra is a long, black-sand beach flying the bandera azul ecológica, a flag that indicates the beach is kept to the highest ecological standards. This is undoubtedly Cahuita’s top spot for swimming. Most importantly, it is generally never crowded. When the swells are big, this spot also has an excellent beach break. It is not one of the regular stops on the Costa Rica surfer circuit, which means more waves for you. Centro Turístico Brigitte in Playa Negra rents boards (half-day US$10) and offers lessons (two hours US$25).
Playa Blanca at the entrance to the national park (Click here) is another good option for swimming.
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Tours
Snorkeling, horseback riding, chocolate tours and visits to nearby indigenous territories are standard offerings:
Cahuita Tours (2755-0000/0232; www.cahuitatours.com) One of the most established agencies in town, this place offers snorkeling tours (US$30), boat/glass-bottom-boat tours (US$25/35) and all-day trips to the Reserva Indígena Talamanca Bribrí (US$60).
Centro Turístico Brigitte (2755-0053; www.brigittecahuita.com) Brigitte specializes in horseback-riding tours along the beach or to jungle waterfalls (per person three/five hours US$55/75). She also rents bikes (per day US$8).
Roberto’s Tours (2755-0117; www.robertostours.com) Arranges snorkeling trips and dolphin tours in the national park, but Roberto’s real claim to fame is inshore/offshore sportfishing (per person US$75/200). Bonus: after all your hard work, he’ll have your haul cooked up for you at his restaurant.
Willie’s Tours (8843-4700; www.willies-costarica-tours.com) Willie’s signature tour takes visitors to visit a Bribrí family and a KéköLdi iguana farm (US$25/55). He’s in a new location these days, on the main drag next to Cocorico Pizzeria Bar.
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Sleeping
There are two possible areas for lodgings in Cahuita: the town center (which can be a little noisy if you’re anywhere near Coco’s Bar), or north of town along Playa Negra. At the latter, you can finding camping at Centro Turístico Brigitte and Reggae Restaurant.
CENTER
Despite the fact that this has long been a touristy spot, Cahuita still has plenty of simple, long-time, locally run accommodations. Budget hotels tend to be clustered in the center of town, while midrange offerings line the fringes.
Budget
Secret Garden (2755-0581; koosiecostarica@live.nl; dm US$9, s/d US$15/25; ) Under new management by a pair of Dutch owners, this small spot has a lush garden as well as five tiled units with fans, mosquito nets and hot water showers in cubicle-style bathrooms. One dormitory has five beds.
Cabinas Atlantic Surf (8919-9313; www.cabinasatlanticsurf.com; dm US$10, d with/without hot water US$25/20, each additional person US$5; ) Recently acquired by new owners Jen and Shannon, this intimate five-room spot has clean wood cabinas with bathrooms and fans, as well as patios with hammocks. A light and airy corner room upstairs is the best one. There is also a shared kitchen.
Cabinas Smith 1 & 2 (2755-0068; s/d/tr older rooms US$12/16/21, s/d/tr/q newer rooms US$25/31/36/46; ) A total of 11 rooms of various configurations are set on two properties that lie around the corner from each other in a quiet part of town. Newer rooms have ceramic tile floors, cable TV, minifridges and bright mirror mosaics, while the cheaper units are far more basic – though all are clean and come with private electric showers.
Villa Delmar (2755-0392/75;