Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [422]
Spencer Seaside Lodging (2755-0027; s/d US$16/30; ) Rooms at this long-time, locally owned spot are basic, but they are big – and the seaside setting can’t be beat. Upstairs units have the better views, as well as a shared terrace strung with hammocks. All have bathrooms. Credit cards accepted.
Cabinas Surfside (2755-0246; evadarling1930@yahoo.com; s/d/tr US$20/25/30; ) Run by a darling local family, the 13 lime-green concrete-block rooms here are spotless – all facing a grassy garden with a shared, open-air kitchen.
Cabinas Safari 1 (2755-0405, 2755-0393; www.cabinasafari.com; s/d/tr/q US$20/25/35/45; ) Seven cheerful, tiled rooms come with floral linens, bathrooms, private decks and hammocks.
Hotel Belle Fleur (2755-0283; hotelbellefleur@hotmail.com; US$25-35; ) Run by the same owners of Cabinas Vaz, this cheaper option has a block of somewhat more basic, but clean rooms behind the Super Vaz food shop.
Cabinas Surfside Annex (2755-0246; evadarling1930@yahoo.com; d US$30) Around the corner from Cabinas Surfside (run by the same owners), on a wild plot of oceanfront land, you’ll find four pricier rooms, which are only open in high season. Both accommodations are on quiet streets.
Cabinas Riverside (8893-2252; d with/without kitchen US$25/20; ) Efficient service and clean rooms are what you’ll find at this tidy nine-room inn near Kelly Creek that is lined with hammocks and Adirondack chairs. A charming budget spot, simple rooms have mosquito nets and hot stone showers.
Cabinas Safari 2 (2755-0405, 2755-0393; www.cabinasafari.com; s/d/tr US$30/40/50) Located on the road to Playa Negra, with an annex location, Safari 2 has another five rooms with ocean views and kitchenettes. Credit cards are accepted.
Cabinas Arrecife (2755-0081; www.cabinasarrecife.com; d/tr/q US$30/35/40; ) Tiled rooms are basic, with polished wood ceilings and fans, but they are comfortable. An onsite soda offers Tico breakfasts (₡2200) and ocean breezes, plus there is a small pool.
Cabinas Brisas del Mar (2755-0011; d/apt US$30/60; ) A tranquil spot run by a charmingly crotchety owner has small cement rooms that are basic, but clean and come equipped with bathrooms, cable TV and hammocks – all within sight of the water. A bigger apartment with two large beds also comes with a full kitchen and TV.
Cabinas Vaz (2755-0218; hotelvaz@gmail.com; d with/without air-con US$40/35; ) A motor court–style structure that’s built in a tropical style surrounds a gravel courtyard and a pool. Twenty-one rooms come with wood furnishings, bright ceramic tiles, cable TV and plenty of daylight.
Midrange
Cabinas Jenny (2755-0256; www.cabinasjenny.com; d US$40-45, d bungalow US$85; ) A stone’s throw from the advancing waves, this place might appear ramshackle on the outside, but its rooms are tidy. Upstairs is best, with units that have wood detailing and ocean views, as well as mosquito nets, coffee makers and toaster ovens. Call in advance to make sure that somebody is here when you arrive.
Bungalows Aché (2755-0119; www.bungalowsache.com; bungalows US$40-60; ) In Nigeria, Aché means ‘Amen,’ and you’ll likely say the same thing when you see these spotless octagonal bungalows on a peaceful property bordering the national park. The three charming, polished wood cabins have bright red-and-white linens and come stocked with a lockbox, minifridge, kettle and private decks with hammocks. Configurations vary, but some units can sleep up to four.
WHAT HAPPEN: PAULA PALMER REMEMBERS CAHUITA IN THE 1970S
In early 1974, after an epic overland journey through Mexico and Central America, US-born Paula Palmer arrived in Cahuita with no firm plans other than to travel as cheaply as possible. She ended up staying 20 years, in the