Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [423]
What was Cahuita like when you first arrived? It didn’t have restaurants, hotels, electricity or telephones. Mail delivery was about once a month. There was also no regular bus service. From Puerto Limón, we’d take the banana train. Then we’d get off at Penshurst, cross the river and get onto a bus. It didn’t have windows or headlights. The guy who collected our money stood up front and would shine a flashlight out onto the road. We all had to push it to start. In those days, the area really had a barter economy. Cacao was the only cash crop, and people lived mostly by exchanging goods and services. I helped establish an English school; in exchange, the parents brought me provisions: eggs, fish, bread or whatever they had. I really admired the people’s self-reliance and cooperation.
What aspects of the culture might travelers still be able to experience? You can really find it on Sundays, when everyone goes to the Protestant and Catholic churches. And there’s the traditional calypso and reggae bands – like Mr Walter Ferguson, who is 89 and doesn’t perform anymore, but who has made CDs. Food is obviously the biggest carry-over: rice and beans in the Caribbean style with coconut and rondón (seafood gumbo). You’ll find it at Miss Edith’s in Cahuita (Click here) or Soda Miss Sam in Puerto Viejo (Click here). The first meal I had in Cahuita in February of 1974 was lobster. I arrived late at night and there was a heavy rain. A woman in her home fed me lobster, rice and beans, cabbage salad and lemonade – for US$1. I was very happy!
Cahuita National Park Hotel (2755-0244; d/tr/q US$45/55/65, apt US$130; ) A three-story building overlooks the ocean at the entrance to the national park and is equipped with 20 pleasant whitewashed rooms with wood furnishings, cool tile floors and roomy bathrooms. They all come equipped with lockbox, minifridge and cable TV. A two-bedroom apartment has a full kitchen and living area, as well as excellent ocean views. There is an onsite restaurant as well.
Alby Lodge (2755-0031; www.albylodge.com; d/tr/q US$50/55/60; ) This fine German-run lodge on the edge of the park has spacious landscaped grounds, littered with trees that attract howler monkeys. Four thatch-room bungalows are spread out across the grounds, allowing for plenty of privacy. High ceilings, mosquito nets and driftwood details make for a pleasant jungle decor. A common rancho (thached gazebo) has excellent communal kitchen facilities.
Kelly Creek Hotel (2755-0007; www.hotelkellycreek.com; d US$55, extra person US$10; ) This snazzy hotel on a busy stretch of beach is conveniently situated right next to the park entrance. Four graceful, tropical cabinas have high ceilings and are accented with cream-colored linens and mosquito nets. Public areas are decorated with paintings by local artists. The onsite Spanish restaurant (dishes ₡2300 to ₡14,000; open from 6:30pm Monday to Saturday) serves up paella for two (₡7000).
Sia Tami Lodge (2755-0374; www.siatami.com; d/q US$75/85; ) A gravel road leads from town, past the other lodges, to this tranquil spot on the edge of the park. This place is ideal for families, as the 10 casas are fully equipped with two bedrooms, living space and kitchen. From each, a terrace overlooks a large private garden. With rainforest all around, this the next best thing to staying in the park itself.
Hotel La Casa de las Flores (2755-0326; www.lacasadelasfloreshotel.com; d incl breakfast US$80, additional person US$15; ) Right in the middle of town, this three-year-old Italian-owned spot has 10 large, sleek contemporary rooms (one of which is wheelchair-accessible) equipped with spacious bathrooms, cable TV and efficient air-con. The close proximity to Coco’s, however, puts you within thumping distance of the bar’s well-endowed speakers. Credit cards