Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [424]
Ciudad Perdida (2755-0303; www.ciudadperdidaecolodge.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$84/102/168; ) Bordering the national park, you’ll find this place, with cute one- and two-room, cotton-candy–colored wood bungalows in a nicely landscaped garden. There are plenty of hammocks, ceiling fans, refrigerators, kitchens and safe boxes. One house has a Jacuzzi, all have cable TV. Credit cards accepted.
PLAYA NEGRA
Northwest of town, along Playa Negra, you’ll find the mellowest options. All of these have bathrooms with hot water.
Budget
Cabinas Algebra (2755-0057; www.cabinasalgebra.com; d US$18, d/tr with kitchen US$25/39; ) A long-time German-run place has three cabins that channel a rustic Swiss Family Robinson vibe. Each of the cozy units is crafted from wood and strung with hammocks. An onsite restaurant serves Tico specialties (mains ₡1100 to ₡6600), including veggie options on request. It’s a 2km trek out of town, but the owners will come pick you up in town (for free!) if you call in advance. A solid, family-friendly budget choice.
Cabinas Tito (2755-0286; www.cahuita-cabinas-tito.com; d US$25, additional person US$8; ) Surrounded by extensive tropical gardens and banana plants, this charming spot offers seven clean, brightly painted cabins. Rooms are furnished in wicker, with mosquito nets and jungle accents. If you absolutely love it, there is a furnished two-bedroom house available for long-term rental.
Centro Turístico Brigitte (2755-0053; www.brigittecahuita.com; d with/without kitchen US$35/25; ) A couple of basic wood cabinas are painted in bright colors. You can also camp on the grounds provided you have your own gear (per person per night US$3).
Cabinas Iguana (2755-0005; www.cabinas-iguana.com; d US$25, d bungalow US$40; ) Set back from the beach, several bungalows – some older, some newer – are nestled into the lushly forested grounds. Simple wood cabins of various sizes (one of which sleeps six) have ceramic tile floors and beds with mosquito nets. One fully furnished apartment with a kitchen sleeps six (US$80). There is a swimming pool.
Jardín Tropical (8811-2754; www.jardintropical.ch; d US$30, 2-bedroom house US$45; ) Deep in the middle of an overgrown garden, two basic wood cabins have high ceilings and porch hammocks. A two-bedroom house sleeps four and comes with a full kitchen. It doesn’t get more tranquil than this – unless, of course, there’s a rowdy crowd at the very popular onsite bar.
La Piscina Natural (2755-0146; d US$35; ) This little gem of a spot – run by inimitable Cahuita native Walter – is the top budget spot in Playa Negra. Painted cement rooms are comfortable and come equipped with bathrooms. But what makes this chilled-out little place so special are the lush grounds and the natural pool (great for a dip) amid the rocks. There is a huge shared kitchen, an outdoor lounge studded with intriguing driftwood sculptures and plenty of chilled beer on hand for guests.
Cabinas Nirvana (2755-0110; d US$35-60, tr US$55-70; ) Seven cabinas come in a variety of arrangements at this lush garden spot surrounding a pool. A couple of units (all of which are built out of wood) have kitchens, one has air-con and one has a broad veranda. Credit cards accepted.
Midrange
Bluspirit (2755-0122; www.bungalowsbluspirit.com; s/d/tr US$40/50/60; ) Three small but delightful blue A-frame cabins are lined up on a pleasant stretch of rocky, waterfront property. They each have a thatch-roofed porch – hung with a hammock, of course – for maximum breeze-catching.
Bungalows Malú (2755-0114; d US$55-110, tr US$65-115; ) At this lodge along Playa Negra, seven stone bungalows with varying configurations and amenities surround an open-air rancho and a sunken free-form pool with waterfall. Cabin floors are lined with an earthy terra-cotta tile and immaculate showers are crafted from stone. All units feature local art. A perfect spot for families. Credit cards accepted.
Hotel La Diosa (2755-0055; www.hotelladiosa.net; s/d US$58/63, with air-con US$76/87, with air-con & Jacuzzi US$88/99, all incl breakfast;