Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [425]
Goddess Garden (2755-0055/0444; www.thegoddessgarden.com; per person incl breakfast/3 meals US$60/100; ) Operated by the same owners as Hotel La Diosa, this place is situated at the end of the Playa Negra road, and is geared more at groups and retreats of up to 100 people. It has a spa, yoga studio and events space. Credit cards accepted.
Playa Negra Guesthouse (2755-0127; www.playanegra.cr; d US$60-80, 2-bedroom cottage US$120; ) This beautiful Caribbean-style plantation house, with several freestanding storybook cottages (equipped with full kitchens), is meticulously decorated and maintained. Guest rooms are painted sherbety colors and feature charming tropical accents – such as colorful mosaics in the bathrooms and cozy wicker lounge chairs on the private decks. Every unit has a minifridge and coffee maker; there is a barbecue and honor bar, plus a lovely free-form pool is set into a well-manicured garden dotted with fan palms. A winner all around. Credit cards accepted.
Chalet Hibiscus (2755-0021; www.hotels.co.cr/hibiscus.html; d US$60, chalets US$120-140; ) Four free-standing beach cottages that sleep between six and 10 people are stocked with full kitchens and balconies strung with hammocks. The accommodations are simple: spacious units have cool white tile floors and wooden walls. One smaller unit sleeps two.
Atlantida Lodge (2755-0115; d standard/deluxe US$63/93; ) The 30 standard-issue wood cabinas at this long-time lodge are much brighter on the outside than on the inside. The grounds, however, are spacious and pretty, with a small outdoor gym and swimming pool. Credit cards accepted.
Magellan Inn (2755-0035; www.magellaninn.com; d with fan/air-con US$69/89, all incl breakfast; ) Toward the northern end of Playa Negra, this comfortable six-room inn has six spacious carpeted rooms with rustic wood furnishings, firm mattresses and cable TV. It also has an open-air bar that overlooks a beautiful garden and a free form pool.
El Encanto B&B (2755-0113; www.elencantocahuita.com; d US$70, d apt US$90, 3-bedroom house US$205, all incl breakfast; ) This charming French-owned B&B is set into lovingly landscaped grounds that are dotted with easy chairs and hammocks. Demure bungalows have high ceilings and firm beds draped in colorful textiles. The apartment and the beach house both have fully equipped kitchens. Credit cards accepted.
Hotel Suizo Loco Lodge (2755-0349; www.suizolocolodge.com; d incl US$89-110; ) Ten immaculate, whitewashed cabins of various sizes have king-sized beds and folk-art accents at this family-friendly spot. All units come equipped with safe, minifridge, solar-heated showers and small, private terraces – and the hotel’s charming owners can supply parents of infants with a crib upon request. Two affectionate pooches patrol the perfectly landscaped grounds, which contain an impressive mosaic-tile pool with a swim-up bar.
Top End
Atiuhac (8911-1347; www.atiuhac.com; d incl breakfast US$100; ) Four raw wood bungalows surround a large rancho with open-air bar stocked with comfy hammock chairs. The cabins are designed to appeal to outdoorsy types: surrounded by foliage, they are rustic, spread out over the property and equipped with roomy private decks, a living area and a shower set into the hollowed trunk of a tree. There’s a creaky 5m-tall look-out tower that is a great spot to hang out and catch a breeze. Check the website for last-minute deals.
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Eating
CENTER
Brasserie Tygo’s (dishes ₡1000-3200; 7am-6pm Wed-Sun; ) A surprising airy and attractive cafe with wicker furnishings overlooks the bus station. It serves pastries, cappuccino, light sandwiches and casados – and it even has wi-fi. It’s a perfect spot to wait for the bus.
100% Natural Coffee Shop (2755-0010; dishes ₡1700-5500; 6:30am-2pm Mon-Fri) There is no better place