Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [426]
Café del Parquecito (2775-0279; breakfast ₡2000-2900; 6am-3pm & 6pm-close) Early risers come for the coffee at this spot on Parque Central. Most of the menu is so-so, but you won’t be disappointed if you stick to the crepes stuffed full of fresh tropical fruit.
Cha Cha Cha! (8394-4153; mains ₡2200-8000; noon-10pm Tue-Sun; ) In a corner veranda of an old house, this attractive expat favorite offers recommended cuisine del mundo (cuisine of the world). Dishes range from Jamaican jerk chicken to Cuban specialties to plenty of vegetarian options, including a ‘zen salad’ crafted from mandarin oranges, basil, cashews and macadamia nuts.
Restaurante Coral Reef (2755-0133; mains ₡2200-9000; 11:30am-10pm) This place attracts fish-lovers, who arrive for steaming portions of seafood stew served in a pleasant 2nd-story balcony overlooking the main drag. The place gets packed, especially in high season (make a reservation). It is located right next to Coco’s Bar, putting post-dinner drinks within easy reach.
Miss Edith’s (2755-0248; mains ₡2300-12,000; 11am-10pm; ) This long-time local restaurant serves a laundry-list of Caribbean specialties, including jerk chicken, rice and beans, and potatoes stewed in garlic – in addition to a number of vegetarian options. It’s a famed spot that sometimes rests on its laurels, with cooking that is off-and-on and somewhat indifferent service.
Roberto’s Restaurant (2755-0117; dishes ₡2500-9000; 7am-10pm) Owned by one of the top fishing guides in the region, you know the seafood is going to be fresh at this charming candlelit spot. The restaurant uses organic ingredients whenever possible.
Restaurant La Fé (dishes ₡2500-10,000; 7am-11pm) A basic, cement eatery on the main drag is draped in swinging oropendola nests and illuminated by candlelight in the evenings. Chef and owner Walter, a Cahuita native, speaks English, Spanish and Mekatelyu, and serves up tall tales and tasty meals at this reasonably priced spot. There’s a laundry-list of Tico and Caribbean items, but the main reason to come here is to eat anything doused in the restaurant’s spicy-delicious coconut sauce. (We still have fantasies about his delicious fish.)
Also good for lunch:
Soda Café Caribbean Flavor (mains ₡1900-5800; 6am-9pm) Caribbean-style standards, fresh juices and gallo pinto (meal of blended rice and beans).
Restaurant Típico Cahuita (2755-0017; mains ₡2000-5800; 8am-close) A spacious spot beneath a palm-thatched palapa has a wide-ranging menu, from casados to pricey lobster (₡25,000).
Pizz ‘N’ Love (breakfast ₡1800-2300, casados ₡2500-3000) It may serve pizza, but the gallo pinto at breakfast is tops.
PLAYA NEGRA
Near Playa Negra, you can also head to Restaurant Bananas at Cabinas Algebra or Centro Turístico Brigitte for good breakfasts, including tasty banana pancakes.
Reggae Restaurant (2755-0269; mains ₡2000-5000; 7-11am & noon-9pm) Exuding a friendly, laidback vibe, this soda serves Caribbean-style standards, from basic casados to the house specialty, shrimp in coconut milk. This place also has facilities for camping (per person US$3), plus some comfortable cabins (US$20 to US$30).
Chao’s Paradise (2755-0480; seafood mains ₡3700-7000; 11am-11pm) Follow the wafting smell of garlic and simmering sauces to this highly recommended Playa Negra outpost that serves fresh catches cooked up in spicy ‘Chao’ sauce. The open-air restaurant-bar has a pool table and live music some nights.
Sobre Las Olas (2755-0109; pastas ₡5500-6500, mains ₡5500-12,500; noon-10pm Wed-Mon; ) Cahuita’s top option for waterfront dining (an ideal spot for a date) lies only a 100m walk out of town. It is owned by a lively Tico-Italian couple who serve a variety of Mediterranean-influenced specialties, such as Marco’s spaghetti pescatore, fresh pasta studded with fish and shrimp. There is a decent wine list and tiramisu (₡2400) for dessert.
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