Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [428]
The trail continues around Punta Cahuita to the long stretch of Playa Vargas. The trail ends at the southern tip of the reef, where it meets up with a road leading to the Puerto Vargas ranger station. From the ranger station, it is another 1.5km along a gravel road to the park entrance. From here, you can hike back to Cahuita along the coastal highway, or you can catch a ride going in either direction.
SWIMMING
Almost immediately upon entering the park, you’ll see the 2km-long Playa Blanca stretching along a gently curving bay to the east. The first 500m of beach may be unsafe for swimming, but beyond that, waves are generally gentle. (Look for green flags marking safe swimming spots.) The rocky Punta Cahuita headland separates this beach from the next one, Playa Vargas. It is unwise to leave clothing or other belongings unattended when you swim.
SNORKELING
Parque Nacional Cahuita contains one of the last living coral reefs in Costa Rica. The reef is accessible from the beach, but the best way to see the creatures under the sea is to hire a guide with a boat in Cahuita. If you prefer to walk, hike along the beach trail. After about 6km, you will come to a sandy stretch that is cut off from the coastline by a rocky headland of Punta Cahuita.
While the reef represents some of the area’s best snorkeling, it has incurred damage over the years from earthquakes and tourism-related activities. In an attempt to protect the reef from further damage, snorkeling is only permitted with a licensed guide. (The tour companies listed Click here all offer excursions.) The going rate for one person is about US$30.
You’ll find that snorkeling conditions vary greatly, depending on the weather and other factors. In general, the drier months in the highlands (from February to April) are best for snorkeling on the coast, as less runoff occurs in the rivers and there is less silting in the sea. Conditions are often cloudy at other times. Indeed, conditions are often cloudy, period.
VOLUNTEERING
Though not renowned as a sea turtle destination, Cahuita’s beaches are nonetheless an important habitat for several breeds. Asociación Widecast (in San José 8818-2543; www.latinamericanseaturtles.org, www.widecast.org; volunteer fee per day US$50) has volunteering opportunities for those interested in assisting on in-water research projects and various conservation-related activities. The daily fee includes homestay accommodations and three meals. It runs a similar program in Gandoca, to the south (Click here). Reserve in advance.
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Eating
After the long, hot hike through the jungle, you may think you are hallucinating when you see Boca Chica (2755-0415; meals ₡3300-10,000; 9am-6pm; ), a small, whitewashed family recreation center, at the end of the road. It’s not a mirage, just a well-placed bar and eatery, run by a charming Italian owner, and offering cold jugos, homemade pasta and Tico and Caribbean specialties. There is a swimming pool.
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CACAO TRAILS
Halfway between Cahuita and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca in Hone Creek, this botanical garden and chocolate museum (2756-8186; Hone Creek; guided tour US$25; 7am-4pm; ) has a couple of small museums devoted to indigenous and Afro-Caribbean culture, a lush garden bursting with bromeliads and heliconias, as well as an onsite chocolate factory where cacao is processed in traditional ways. Two-hour tours include a visit to all of these spots, plus a hike to a nearby organic farm. Additional expeditions allow for further exploration by kayak on the adjacent Río Carbón. Any bus between Cahuita and Puerto Viejo can drop you at the entrance. This is a great outing for kids.
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PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA
There was a time when the only travelers to the little seaside settlement once known