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as Old Harbor were intrepid surfers who shacked up in cheap cabinas and then lazily flip-flopped around the quiet, dusty streets, board under arm, on their way to ride the Salsa Brava. That, certainly, is no longer the case. This burgeoning Caribbean party town is bustling with tourist activity: street vendors ply Rasta trinkets and Bob Marley T-shirts, stylish eateries serve global fusion everything and intentionally rustic bamboo bars pump dancehall and reggaetón. The scene, in fact, can get downright hedonistic, attracting dedicated revelers who arrive to marinate in ganja and guaro (the local cane alcohol).

Despite the reputation for revelry, Puerto Viejo nonetheless manages to hold on to an easy charm. Stray a couple of blocks off the main commercial strip and you might find yourself on a sleepy dirt road, savoring a spicy Caribbean stew in the company of local families. Nearby, you’ll find rainforest fruit farms set to a soundtrack of cackling birds and croaking frogs, and wide-open beaches where the daily itinerary revolves around surfing and snoozing. So, chill a little. Party a little. Eat a little. You’ve come to just the right place.

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Dangers & Annoyances

Unfortunately, a cottage industry of drug dealers has become a permanent part of the landscape in Puerto Viejo. In fact, in some spots, it can get quite aggressive. Be firm if you’re not interested. And be aware that though the use of marijuana is common in Puerto Viejo, it is nonetheless illegal.

As in other popular tourist centers, theft can be an issue. Stay aware, use your hotel safe, and if you are staying outside of town, it is best not to walk alone late at night. Likewise, the town has a number of independent touts offering all manner of travel services. Choose your accommodations carefully and take tours from recommended agencies and guides.

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Information

The websites Green Coast (www.greencoast.com) and Puerto Viejo (www.puertoviejocr.com) have information on lodging, eating and activities in the area.

ATEC (Asociación Talamanqueña de Ecoturismo y Conservación; 2750-0191, 2750-0398; www.ateccr.org; 8am-9pm) A reliable source of information on tours and activities in the area also offers a number of vintage desktops with internet access (₡1200 per hour).

Banco de Costa Rica (9am-4pm Mon-Fri) The ATM here works on the Plus and Visa systems. It sometimes runs out of cash on weekends.

David’s Library (2750-0232) This book exchange operates in the lobby of the Lotus Garden hotel.

Jungle Internet (2750-2086; www.junglec.com; per hr ₡1700; 8am-11pm) Decent laptops and wireless access.

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Sights

To the west of town, Finca La Isla Botanical Garden (2750-0046; www.costaricacaribbean.com; self-guided/guided tour US$5/10; 10am-4pm Fri-Mon) is a working tropical farm where the owners have been growing organic pepper, cacao, tropical fruits and ornamental plants for more than a decade. Part of the farm is set aside as a botanical garden, which is also good for bird-watching and for wildlife observation (look for sloths, poison-dart frogs and toucans). The informative guided tour (in English) includes admission, fruit tasting and a glass of fresh juice to finish, or you can buy a booklet (US$1) and take yourself on a self-guided tour.

SALSA BRAVA

One of the biggest breaks in Costa Rica, the Salsa Brava is named for the heaping helping of ‘spicy sauce’ it serves up on the sharp, shallow reef, continually collecting its debt of fun in broken skin, boards and bones. The wave makes its regular, dramatic appearance when the swells pull in from the east, pushing a wall of water against the reef, in the process, generating a thick and powerful curl. There’s no gradual build up here: the water is transformed from swell to wave in a matter of seconds. Ride it out and you’re golden. Wipe-out and you’ll rocket head-first into the reef. In his memoir, In Search of Captain Zero, surfer and screenwriter Allen Weisbecker describes it as ‘vicious.’ Some mordant locals