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Interestingly, this storied wave helped turn Puerto Viejo into a destination. More than 30 years ago, the town was barely accessible. But that did not dissuade dogged surfers from the bumpy bus rides and rickety canoes that hauled them and their boards on the week-long trip from San José. They camped on the beach and shacked up with locals, carbo-loading at cheap sodas. Other intrepid explorers – biologists, Peace Corps volunteers, disaffected US veterans looking to escape the fallout of the Vietnam War – also materialized during this time, helping spread the word about the area’s luminous sunsets, lush rainforests and monster curls. Today, Puerto Viejo has a fine paved road, global eateries and wi-fi. The fierceness of the Salsa Brava, however, remains unchanged.

West of Puerto Viejo, the Jungles of Talamanca is actually a small tropical nursery and cacao finca. This Bribrí family welcomes visitors to its home, where you can see cacao toasted over an open fire then hand-ground into delicious chocolate or rich cocoa butter. Nutmeg, black pepper or cinnamon, all grown onsite, may be added. The resulting product is truly decadent – it’s amazing that something so luscious comes from such humble origins. This place is 4km out of town, on the road to Bribrí; look for the sign just past the clinic.

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Activities

SURFING

Breaking on the reef that hugs the village, you will find the famed Salsa Brava, a shallow break that is also one of the country’s most infamous waves (see boxed text above). It’s a tricky ride – if you lose it, the waves will plow you straight into the reef – but it’s a rush (and most definitely not for beginners). Salsa Brava offers both rights and lefts, although the right is usually faster. Conditions are best with an easterly swell.

For a softer landing, try the beach break at Playa Cocles – where the waves are almost as impressive and the landing, far less-damaging. Cocles is about 2km east of town. Conditions are usually best early in the day, before the wind picks up.

Waves in the area generally peak from December to March, and there is a surfing mini-season from June to July. From late March to May, and in September and October, the sea is at its calmest.

There are several surf schools around town, charging about US$40 for two hours of lessons. Stands around town rent boards from about US$20 per day. Surf schools around town include:

Caribe Surf (8357-7703; www.caribesurf.com) Run by super-smiley surf instructor, Hershel, who is widely considered the best teacher in the town. Call Hershel to organize a lesson (the school has no office).

Van Dyke Surf School (2750-0620; hotelpuertoviejocr.com) Long-time surfer Kurt Van Dyke – who has lived in Puerto Viejo for decades (and who, coincidentally, is the nephew of legendary big wave surfer Fred Van Dyke) – runs this new outfit, which offers lessons for beginners and workshops for experienced riders who want to sharpen their skills. Look for the office adjacent to Hotel Puerto Viejo (Van Dyke is the proprietor there as well).

SWIMMING

The entire southern Caribbean coast – from Cahuita all the way south to Punta Mona – is lined with unbelievably beautiful beaches. Just northwest of town, Playa Negra offers the area’s safest swimming.

Southeast of town you will find some gems – stretches of smooth white sand (quite slender at high tide), fringed by jungle and ideal for surfing, body surfing and, when the swell is low, swimming. Playa Cocles (2km east of town), Playa Chiquita (4km east), Punta Uva (6km east) and Manzanillo all offer postcard-perfect beach paradises (think: swaying palm trees and exotic birds). Swimming conditions vary greatly, however, and the surf can get dangerous. Riptides and powerful undertows can be deadly. Inquire at your hotel or with local tour operators about conditions before setting out.

SNORKELING

The waters from Cahuita to Manzanillo are protected by Costa Rica’s only two living reef systems, which form a naturally protected sanctuary, home to some