Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [433]
Bungalows Calalú (2750-0042; www.bungalowscalalu.com; s/d/tr US$26/36/44, with kitchen US$45/55/65; ) Set in a blooming garden, this family-friendly inn has five bungalows that surround a tranquil courtyard with a roomy stone-lined pool fed by a gushing waterfall. The bungalows themselves are simple, with tiled floors and wood-beam ceilings, but all have private porches.
Cabinas Jacaranda (2750-0069; www.cabinasjacaranda.net; d/tr/q from US$30/36/50; ) In a blooming garden intersected by mosaic walkways, this tidy local spot – run by a terrifically friendly staff – has 15 simple wood cabinas with lockboxes, spotless ceramic tile floors and murals of flowers. There is yoga and massage available onsite, as well as a shared kitchen and a garden patio for lounging. Credit cards accepted.
Lizard King Resort (2750-0614; lizardkingresort@net.com; s/d/tr/q US$35/45/60/75, d with air-con US$75; ) A two-storey wooden building on the eastern edge of town houses 15 spacious hardwood cabins that overlook a roomy pool. Upstairs units are nicer – and more private. Rates include a hearty Tico or US-style breakfast. The onsite restaurant serves three meals a day. Credit cards accepted.
Cabinas Guaraná (2750-0244; www.hotelguarana.com; s/d/tr/q US$33/41/51/58; ) Set amid a riotous tropical garden, you’ll find 10 brightly painted concrete cabins at this charming Italian-run inn. Units are decorated with wooden furniture and colorful folk tapestries, and each one comes with a small private terrace with hammock. There is a spacious shared kitchen, free internet, laundry service and a vertigo-inducing tree house that offers spectacular views of the Caribbean Sea. This place is excellent value; credit cards are accepted.
Cabinas Tropical (2750-0283; www.cabinastropical.com; s/d/tr US$35/40/48, d with air-con US$48; ) Ten spacious rooms – decorated with varnished wood and shiny tiles – surround a primly landscaped garden on the edge of town. The comfortable quarters are just part of the appeal: biologist owner Rolfe Blancke leads excellent bird-watching hikes at dawn (per person US$50, minimum three people, breakfast provided).
Casa Verde (2750-0015; www.cabinascasaverde.com; s/d without bathroom from US$38/40; s/d/tr/q US$56/70/86/102; ) Tiled walkways wind through gardens with 17 tidy rooms, each with high ceilings, stained wood furniture, folk-art touches and private terraces with hammocks. Cheaper rooms are more basic, but the shared bathrooms shine. A pool and hot tub – encrusted with rock formations – are straight out of Fantasy Island. Credit cards accepted.
Chimuri Beach Cottages (2750-0119; www.chimuribeach.com; d/q US$39/55; ) On the road to Playa Negra, the charming Colocha and Mauricio keep three sherbet-colored beach cottages in various sizes that are clean and simple, each with its own private deck and hammock – as well as a bed draped in a mosquito net. They can organize walks through their finca in the mountains, which abuts the KéköLdi indigenous territory. This is a wonderfully serene spot.
MIDRANGE
Exotica Lodge (2750-0542; www.exoticalodge.com; s/d US$40/50, additional person US$10; ) A row of clean, simple whitewashed rooms with wicker furnishings, bright linens, decorative textiles, minifridge and cable TV. Some are equipped with air-con as well.
Lotus Garden (2750-0232; thelotusgarden.net; d US$40, 2-person ste US$70-90; ) Channeling the Far East (by way of Puerto Viejo), the nine large, stone-lined suites at this inn come with king-sized four-poster beds, cable TV, air-con, lockbox, Jacuzzi tubs, gobs of Asian textiles and Japanese names such as ‘Shogun.’ (Cue the zither music.) Several smaller