Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [434]
Coco Loco Lodge (2750-0281; www.cocolocolodge.com; 2-person r/bungalow/apt US$45/50/60; ) You’ll find various accommodations at this quiet, Austrian-run hotel southwest of the soccer field. The most charming of these are the palm-thatched bungalows, equipped with shining wood floors, minifridge and coffee makers. All of these have private terraces with hammocks, offering views of the expansive garden. Credit cards accepted.
El Pizote Lodge (2750-0227; d/q US$50/70, bungalows US$70/90; ) On a quiet back road about 500m west of town, this mellow hotel popular with Tico families is about a 10-minute walk from the village. Standard rooms are basic wooden cabinas with bathrooms and a shared deck, while more private concrete bungalows come with terraces, minifridge, coffee maker and toaster. There is both an adult and children’s pool as well as a restaurant. Credit cards accepted.
PUERTO VIEJO: ¡NO A LA MARINA!
Drive around the Puerto Viejo area and you are bound to see signs that read, ¡No a la marina! These refer to a proposed US$40 million, 398-slip marina proposed by a consortium of US and Costa Rican investors. The plan – which would lay waste to the famous Salsa Brava surf break (see boxed text) – would include two breakwaters, a shopping center and a yacht maintenance center.
There is staunch local opposition to the project (hence the signs) – including Bribrí leaders, who have publicly decried the idea because of its possible cultural and environmental impact. In addition, some local activists are concerned that a marina would consume vast amounts of freshwater for the purpose of boat maintenance – at a time when the area (and the country) is struggling with freshwater shortages.
For now, with the global economy sputtering along – and tourism down on all fronts – the project appears to be on hold. There’s no telling, however, when the idea could be resurrected. Watch this space…
Agapi (2750-0446; www.agapisite.com; d standard/apt US$60/80, additional person US$10; ) In a prime seaside location east of town, this sweet 18-room spot with a lovingly tended garden is run by a friendly Greek-Tica couple. Simple units vary in size and configuration, from wood-paneled cabins to spacious apartments with ocean views. Grown-ups will love the free-form mosaic pool and outdoor Jacuzzi, while the tykes will go crazy in the brand new kiddie splash pool. Breakfast and bicycle rental are available for an additional charge. Credit cards accepted.
Banana Azul (2750-2035; www.bananaazul.com; d incl breakfast US$69-94, 2-person apt US$129; ) Lost in the jungle at the far end of Playa Negra this wonderfully wild hotel run by Roberto Vreña and Colin Brownlee sits at the edge of a blissfully tranquil black-sand beach. The 13 rooms are all done up in the finest jungle chic: shining wooden floors, white linens, mosquito nets and private decks with views – as well as graceful touches such as bromeliads in the showers. There is a two-bedroom apartment that comes stocked with private decks and a small fish pond. An onsite restaurant-bar serves light meals and snacks, as well as sensational fruity cocktails, ideal for sipping by the free-form pool. No children under 15; credit cards accepted.
Escape Caribeño (2750-0103; www.escapecaribeno.com; d with/without ocean view US$80/70, additional person US$15; ) Charming Italian owners keep 14 spic-and-span bungalows with spotless bathrooms, some of which lie close to the beach and others of which are set back into a tidy garden. More expensive units are in lovely Caribbean-style structures, but all of them have stocked minifridges, cable TV, fans and, most importantly, hammocks. Breakfast is available with advance reservation. Credit cards accepted.
Blue Conga Hotel (2750-0681; www.bluecongacr.com; d/tr incl breakfast US$80/90; ) A graceful new B&B east of town has 10 sparkling rooms in a tropical-style building, all of which are named after local flora. Airy units have high ceilings,