Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [435]
Samasati Retreat Center (2750-0315, in USA 800-563-9643; www.samasati.com; per person guesthouse/bungalow incl 3 meals from US$85/135; ) Set on a hillside 8km west of Puerto Viejo, this attractive yoga retreat center has sweeping views of the coast as well as nine wooden bungalows with wraparound screened windows and a guesthouse stocked with single beds (for solo travelers on a budget). Meals are vegetarian, with an organic focus (including organic chocolate cake) and are served buffet-style on a terrace with views. Hiking trails lead from the lodge into the hills and guided trips can be arranged. Rates are all based on double occupancy.
Cashew Hill Jungle Cottages (2750-0001; www.cashewhilllodge.co.cr; 1-/2-/3-bedroom cottages US$90/110/150; ) Set on a lush hillside studded with pre-Columbian style statuary, the seven cottages at this lovely, family-friendly jungle spot are bright, colorful and comfortable. The wood houses are painted in vivid shades and come with full kitchens, loft-style sleeping areas and charming rustic touches such as shell-encrusted sinks. All of the units have private decks or patios stocked with comfy chairs and hammocks, while one two-bedroom cabin offers exquisite ocean views. It’s a bit of a trek from town, but it’s worth it. Credit cards accepted.
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Eating
With what is perhaps the most impressive restaurant scene on the coast, Puerto Viejo has the cure for casado overkill.
BUDGET
Café Rico (coffee from ₡800; 8am-4pm) Dark, rich coffee – iced, even – is served alongside light breakfasts and lunches. Bonus: you earn yourself a free mug by doing your laundry (₡3500 for 4kg) onsite. Also on offer: beach cruisers, snorkel gear and ‘conspiracy consultations.’ (Just ask.)
Veronica’s Place (2750-0132; dishes ₡1200-3200; 7am-9pm Sun-Thu, until 4:30pm Fri; ) A delightful vegetarian cafe offers fresh, healthy interpretations of Caribbean food, using fresh fruits and vegetables, as well as soy products. Veronica rents cabins and has a macrobiotic health food store onsite.
Pan Pay (2750-0081; dishes ₡1500-2800; 7am-7pm) This popular beachside spot is excellent for strong coffee, fresh baked goods and hearty wedges of fluffy Spanish omelet served with crisp tomato-bread. There are sandwiches and other light meals, but it’s thoughts of their flaky chocolate croissants that make us want to jump out of bed in the morning.
Soda Tamara (2750-0148; breakfast ₡1500-2800, seafood mains ₡4200-4800; 7am-10pm) With its signature red, green and yellow paint job, this is a popular spot to grab breakfast and watch the village wake up. During the day seafood is the specialty, but don’t miss out on the moist coconut bread. Yum!
Bread & Chocolate (8830-3223; breakfast ₡1500-3800; 6:30am-6:30pm Wed-Sat, 6:30am-2:30pm Sun; ) This cafe invites early risers to sit on the spacious, covered porch, sip fresh-brewed coffee and chill. Favorites include old-school oatmeal, fluffy omelets and crunchy granola and yogurt.
Cafetería Gaudí Sushi Bar (dishes ₡2000-4000; 7-11am & 5-11pm) A pleasant blue-and-white painted spot on a quiet side road has a menu stocked with Japanese-influenced specialties, including sushi, rice noodles and tuna tataki. Breakfast is served as well.
Soda Mirna (mains ₡2200-3500; noon-10pm) This humble little soda on the main drag offers excellent people-watching and highly tasty (and inexpensive) Caribbean-style dishes. Try the smoked pork chops with marinated onions or the zesty stewed chicken served with rice and beans – and whatever you do, don’t forget to sample the fiery homemade hot sauce.
EZ-Times (mains ₡2800-5600; 10am-2:30am) The reggae music and groovy vibe lure in hungry beach bums for pizza, pasta and salads. The outdoor terrace is a good place to sit back and enjoy the munchies, not to