Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [436]
@E’s (2750-0657; mains ₡3000-4200; 7:30am-11pm) The restaurant and bar at Rocking J’s is much more than just a travelers hang-out. Run by a Cordon Bleu–trained chef, Eric, the menu is a pan-everything fusion of Thai, Mexican and US cuisine – covering the gamut from burgers to stir-fries as well as fancier dishes, like seared marlin.
Other excellent places for Caribbean cooking are Soda Miss Sam (2750-0108; dishes ₡1000-8000) and Miss Lidia’s Place (2750-0598; dishes ₡1000-10,000; 9am-9pm), local favorites that dish up plenty of spicy coconut sauce. Red snapper dishes cost ₡8000 and lobster in garlic will set you back ₡20,000. Both ladies have been around for years, pleasing the palates and satisfying the stomachs of locals and tourists alike.
The best spot for groceries is Old Harbour Supermarket (6:30am-8:30pm). Don’t miss the weekly Organic Market (6am-6pm Sat), when area vendors and growers sell snacks typical of the region.
MIDRANGE
Chile Rojo (2750-0025; chilerojopuertoviejo.com; mains ₡2800-7500; noon-10pm; ) If you are craving a little Asian fusion, head to this trendy, 2nd-storey spot that offers excellent views of the main drag (ideal at sunset). Here you’ll find everything from sushi to Thai curries to Indian samosas stuffed full of veggies. Arrive early in the evening for wallet-friendly two-for-one beer specials.
Lotus Garden Restaurant (mains ₡3000-7800; 7am-11pm) Serving a mix of sushi, noodles and stir-fries, this pleasant garden restaurant is a good spot if you are in the mood for something Asian.
El Loco Natural (2750-0530; meals ₡3200-9000; 5-10pm Wed-Mon; ) A pleasant candle-lit patio cafe located 200m east of town serves up creative fusion cuisine, combining elements of Caribbean, Indian, Mexican and Thai cooking. Steamed spicy mussels in red-curry sauce and tandoori chicken in coconut are just a couple of stand-outs. But if you really want to give your tastebuds a joy ride, try the exquisite fish tacos – excellent with an icy guaro sour (₡2800) from the bar. Owner and chef Stash Golas is a rock star in the kitchen and an artist to boot. There is an encyclopedic list of vegetarian items (with Friday nights featuring additional vegan specialties). Do not miss.
Beach Hut (2750-0895; mains from ₡4000; noon-midnight) A lovely yellow-and-blue garden restaurant on the east end of the village with stellar views of the Salsa Brava and highly recommended fusion cuisine (think: tuna with wasabi, ratatouille and poached pears in chocolate sauce). It is very popular with locals and travelers alike – promising its customers ‘love at first bite.’
Restaurant Salsa Brava (2750-0241; mains ₡4400-10,000; noon-10pm) A recommended hot spot specializes in fresh seafood and open-grill cooking. The ever-popular ‘juice joint’ is an oasis for thirsty beachcombers and the sangría is refreshingly good, too.
Amimodo Caribe Restaurant (2750-0257; meals ₡4700-14,500; 4-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-10pm Fri-Sun; ) Listen to the waves crash at this local Italian favorite, where you can chow down on pizzas and homemade pasta dishes – such as lobster spaghetti (₡14,500). A cheaper ‘surfing menu’ (₡3800) features carb-heavy specialties such as fish and chips and chicken-fried steak with rice.
TOP END
Koki Beach (2275-0902; www.kokibeach.com; meals ₡5500-13,000; 2pm-midnight Wed-Sun) Doing its best to channel Miami Beach, this sleek spot cranking reggae-lite classics has fruit-colored paper lanterns and Adirondack chairs that face the ocean from an elevated wooden platform. There’s a decent selection of Peruvian-inflected ceviches, meat and seafood dishes as well as some watery cocktails. If you’re going to snack, the yucca chips and guacamole are quite good.
Café Viejo (2750-0817; mains ₡5000-16,000; noon-close) A pricey, sceney Mediterranean lounge and restaurant that gets good marks for fresh pastas, tasty pizzas and fancy cocktails. The upscale, romantic ambience makes it a safe bet for important dates – and its location right on the main drag makes for excellent people-watching.
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