Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [438]
The Mariposario Punta Uva (2750-0086; adult/child under 6 US$5/free; 8am-4pm) in Punta Uva is more of a butterfly-breeding center than a tourist attraction (though it does have wonderful ocean views). Some 70 species of butterfly are bred annually, including four species that the staff says exist in captivity nowhere else in the world. What you’ll see depends on the time of year. Bilingual guided tours are available.
Nearby, the Crazy Monkey Canopy Tour (2759-9057/56, in USA 800-317-4108; www.crazymonkeycanopytour.com; per person US$40; 8am-2pm), affiliated with Punta Uva’s Almonds and Corals Lodge, will zip you through the tree-tops from rainforest to beach. Staff can arrange transport to and from Puerto Viejo for an extra US$10.
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Activities
The region’s biggest draws involve surf, sand, wildlife-watching and attempts to get a decent tan between downpours. Playa Cocles is known for its great surfing and organized lifeguard system, which helps offset the dangers of the frequent riptides, while Punta Uva features the best and safest beaches for swimming.
In Playa Chiquita, find the Jaguar Centro de Rescate (2750-0710; www.jaguarrescue.com; admission US$10; 9:30-11:30am), a grassroots animal-rescue center founded by a Spanish zoologist.
For all manner of underwater excursions, check in with the Punta Uva Dive Center (2759-9191; www.puntauvadivecenter.com; 1-tank dives from US$60), which can set you up with snorkels and scuba equipment. It is located at the first turn-off into Punta Uva.
INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIES IN THE SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN
The area is home to a number of thriving indigenous communities, many of which can be visited by travelers. Brush up on a little local knowledge first:
Bribrí & Cabécar
At least two indigenous groups occupied the territory on the Caribbean side of the country from pre-Columbian times. The Bribrí tended to inhabit lowland areas, while the Cabécar made their home high in the Talamanca Mountains. Over the last century, members of both ethnic groups have migrated to the Pacific side. But many have stayed on the coast, inter-marrying with Jamaican immigrants and even working in the banana industry. Today the Bribrí tend to be more acculturated, while the Cabécar are more isolated.
The groups have distinct languages (which are preserved to some degree), though they share similar architecture, weapons and canoe style. They also share the spiritual belief that the planet – and the flora and fauna contained within it – are gifts from Sibö, or God. Taking Care of Sibö’s Gifts, by Juanita Sánchez, Gloria Mayorga and Paula Palmer, is a remarkable record of Bribrí oral history.
Visiting Indigenous Communities
There are several reserves on the Caribbean slopes of the Cordillera de Talamanca, including the Talamanca Cabécar territory (which is more difficult to visit) and the Bribrí territory, where locals are more equipped to handle visitors.
The most interesting destination is Yorkín, in the Reserva Indígena Yorkín (it’s a long trip, so it’s best to spend the night). While you are there, you can meet with a local women’s artisan group, Mujeres Artesanas Stibrawpa (2248-9470, in USA 866-393-5899; artesanasdeyorkin.org; day trips from US$74), who offer demonstrations in roof thatching, cooking and basket-weaving (the latter of which provides plenty of fine examples for purchase). The group organizes all manner of day trips and can arrange for pick-up in San José, though it may be easier to make arrangements at ATEC (2750-0191/398; www.greencoast.com/atec.htm; 8am-9pm), right in Puerto Viejo. It’s a rewarding trip, but it’s not easy to get there (part of the trip is by canoe).
Alternately, you can visit the larger, modern village of Shiroles, about 20km west of Bribrí, where you can observe and participate in local chocolate production.