Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [439]
Note: it is not recommended to visit these territories independently. Not only are some spots difficult to reach, in most cases, villages do not have the infrastructure to accommodate streams of tourists. Overnight stays should to be arranged in advance. Please be respectful – these are people’s private homes and workspaces, not tourist attractions.
Return to beginning of chapter
Sleeping & Eating
All of the places below are listed from west (Puerto Viejo) to east (Punta Uva). Accommodations have hot water, unless otherwise noted. Note that some restaurants may have reduced hours or close down entirely during the low season.
PLAYA COCLES
A broad stretch of white-sand beach lies just 1.5km east of Puerto Viejo – offering proximity to the village and its many restaurants – but plenty of peace and quiet, too.
Cabinas El Tesoro (2750-0128; www.puertoviejo.net/cabinaselteroro.htm; dm US$7, d standard US$48-80, d executive US$64-100, bungalows from US$48; ) The rooms are rather dim, but they are clean and the location is excellent – especially for the surfer set. Located right on the beach break at Playa Cocles, the 12 simple units have tile floors, queen beds with floral spreads and cable TV. Private bungalows can accommodate up to 11 people. Next door, you’ll find bikes and surfboards for rent. The small open-air bar hosts grooving live music jams on Wednesdays. Credit cards accepted.
La Isla Inn (2750-0109; www.laislainn.com; d with/without air-con US$96/68; ) Opposite the lifeguard tower at the main hub of the beach lies this functional wooden lodge with 12 expansive rooms, all of which are equipped with safes, cable TV and handmade wood furnishings crafted from the slightly curved outer boards that are discarded during lumber processing. The service is efficient and there is a pool that faces the ocean. Credit cards accepted.
Totem (2750-0758; www.totemhotelresort.com; d with/without air-con US$90/80, junior ste/2-room ste US$90/110, additional person US$18, all incl breakfast; ) Just beyond La Isla – and just steps from the beach – you’ll find this smartly decorated 20-room inn set back into a lush, tropical garden. Rooms are painted in soothing colors, decked out with bamboo furnishings, folk-art touches, and spotless bathrooms clad in earth-tone ceramic tile. Nicer suites (one of which is wheelchair-accessible) are even roomier – with a couple that open straight out on the pool. There is a surf shop, board rentals and the beachfront Osteria (mains ₡3500 to ₡6000), an Italian restaurant serving tasty pasta dishes. Credit cards accepted; no charge for children under 12.
Cariblue (2750-0035/0518; www.cariblue.com; d standard/deluxe/superior US$95/110/120, additional person US$30, all incl breakfast; ) Set in lovely gardens (with labeled plants for the botanically curious), this popular family spot has a mix of 22 individual rooms and bungalows (some with air-con), all of which are crisply painted, with hardwood accents, bright linens and private decks equipped with hammocks and easy chairs. There is a pool table, an open-air lounge and a lovely mosaic pool, complete with swim-up bar. Credit cards accepted.
Cabinas Garibaldi (2750-0101; d/tr US$30/40, d with kitchenette US$40; ) A basic surfer crash pad – and the cheapest stay in the area – offers a row of reasonably clean cabinas that share a porch with sea views. The waves are right across the street.
Azania Bungalows (2750-0540; www.azania-costarica.com; d incl breakfast US$85, additional person US$20; ) Ten spacious but dark thatch-roofed bungalows are brightened up by colorful linens at this charming inn set on landscaped jungle grounds. Nice details including woven bedspreads, well-designed bathrooms and wide-plank hardwood floors. Plus, some units sleep up to four. You’ll find