Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [440]
La Costa de Papito (2750-0704; www.lacostadepapito.com; d incl breakfast US$89, additional person US$13; ) Relax in rustic comfort in the sculpture-studded grounds at this popular Cocles outpost, which has wood and bamboo bungalows decked out with hand-carved furniture, stone bathrooms straight out of The Flintstones and roomy porches draped with hammocks. The Que Rico Papito Restaurant (mains US$9 to US$15) serves Italian-influenced specialties – and for an extra US$8 per day can arrange to have breakfast delivered to your room. At the entrance, find the rustic, palm-thatched Pure Jungle Spa (2750-0536; www.purejunglespa.com; one-hour massage US$70), which offers massages, exfoliating treatments and facials using hand-mixed local products.
El Tucán Jungle Lodge (2750-0026; www.eltucanjunglelodge.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$45/60/70; ) You may wonder if you missed the turn, as you follow the signs in search of this little lodge on the banks of the Caño Negro; it’s only 1km off the road, but it feels miles from anywhere – making it ideal for bird-watchers. Four super-clean wooden cabinas buried in the forest have bright linens and share a broad patio with hammocks. The welcoming German owner organizes walks in the area.
Hotel Yaré (2750-0106; www.hotelyare.com; s/d US$41/58, d bungalow US$70; ) Facing the soccer field, a network of elevated walkways lead through a marshy jungle filled with croaking frogs to one of 22 private rooms and bungalows at this locally run spot. The units are somewhat worn, but clean; more expensive rooms with kitchens are best. Credit cards accepted.
La Pecora Nera (2750-0490; mains ₡5600-15,000; 5pm-close Tue-Sun; ) If you splurge for a single fancy meal during your trip, do it here. A lovely, candle-lit patio off the main road is home to this romantic eatery run by Tuscan-born Ilario Giannoni and serving deftly prepared Italian seafood and pasta dishes, such as tender handmade ravioli filled with pumpkin and shrimp. A must-have: the delicate carpaccio di carambola, transparent slices of starfruit topped with shrimp, tomatoes and balsamic vinaigrette. And, for dessert, don’t miss the profiteroles, layered with homemade vanilla ice-cream and doused in a rich chocolate sauce. There is an extensive wine list (from ₡8000 a bottle), but you can’t go wrong with the well-chosen and relatively inexpensive house wines.
Gatta Ci Cova (sandwiches ₡3000-5500, mains ₡4000-5500; noon-10pm Tue-Sun; ) Right next door, and also run by Giannoni, is this informal 2nd-story trattoria cooking up basic Italian dishes. The pizzas are forgettable, but the paninis (pressed sandwiches) are excellent, served on fresh Tuscan bread and brimming with ingredients such as mozzarella and salami. A new ground-floor bar and lounge (open from 4pm to midnight) has drinks and light snacks.
Le Cameleon (2750-0501; www.lecameleonhotel.com; d from US$200; ) In a super-sleek structure that seems to have been airlifted straight from West Hollywood, this trendy new boutique inn has 23 all-white rooms accented by colorful throw pillows. Units all have air-con and are stocked with all the requisite high-end goodies and services. There is a pool and an uber-contemporary restaurant-lounge that serves so-so cocktails and fusion cuisine. It’s not on the beach, but a private beach club keeps patrons plied with lounge chairs and cold drinks. Credit cards accepted.
PLAYA CHIQUITA
It isn’t exactly clear where Playa Cocles ends and Playa Chiquita begins, but conventional wisdom applies the name to a series of beaches 4km to 6km east of Puerto Viejo.
Villas del Caribe (2750-0202, in San José 2233-2200; www.villasdelcaribe.com; d standard/junior villa/villa US$89/99/119; ) Lovely, brightly painted rooms have comfortable beds, sitting areas, roomy bathrooms with Spanish tile and air-con. More expensive junior villas also come with toasters, microwave ovens and coffee makers, while the two-storey villas have ocean views,