Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [441]
Aguas Claras (2750-0131; www.aguasclaras-cr.com; 1-/2-/3-room cottages from US$70/130/220; ) Five tropical Victorian cottages painted in bright, candy colors have fully equipped kitchens and easy access to the beach. The delightful gazebo out front is Miss Holly’s Kitchen (breakfast ₡3800; open from 8am to 4pm), which serves breakfast (think French toast and tropical fruit), sandwiches and baked goods.
Cabinas Slothclub (2750-0358; d US$50; ) The best and only budget option along Playa Chiquita: five simple, clean wooden cabins have great views, beach access and a snorkeling reef out the front. These little places often attract long-term renters, so call in advance.
Kashá (2750-0205, in USA 800-521-5200; www.costarica-hotelkasha.com; d/tr/q US$90/120/140, s/d bungalows with air-con US$90/110, all incl breakfast; ) Simple wood bungalows with whitewashed interiors are somewhat basic given the prices. All-inclusive packages are available. The onsite restaurant, Magic Ginger (mains ₡3900 to ₡7200; open from noon to 2pm and from 6pm to 10pm Monday to Saturday), is well recommended for global fusion specialties, including seared tuna and spicy Jamaican-style pork.
Miraflores Lodge (2750-0038; www.mirafloreslodge.com; d incl breakfast US$30-60) You’ll find a mix of 10 rooms with various configurations spread out over a couple of structures at this simple, homey spot run by long-time resident Pamela Carpenter, an expert on botany and medicinal plants. (Check out the garden labyrinth.) Upstairs rooms are best, with garden views, and a small open-air lounge has a library. Breakfast includes seasonal fruits grown on the grounds.
Jungle Love Garden Café (2750-0162; meals ₡4300-6500; 5-9:30pm Tue-Sun; ) American bohemian meets the Caribbean at this popular porch-front cafe that serves fusion dishes such as mango chicken with cilantro, creamy shrimp pasta with brandy and an eponymous Jungle Love Milkshake, a very grown-up blend of Bailey’s, guaro and local ice cream. The menu has veggie options and vegan items can be prepared on request. There are only eight tables; reserve ahead.
C&J Marketplace (2750-0904; www.candjcostarica.com; s/d/tr/q US$25/50/75/100; ) A small supermarket and juice joint (perfect for fresh-made juice) also has a handful of clean, wood cabinas on offer at wallet-friendly rates.
Playa Chiquita Lodge (2750-0408; www.playachiquitalodge.com; d incl breakfast US$60; ) A row of eight brightly painted wooden cabins are slightly worn, but come with bathrooms (with questionable water pressure) and a broad deck equipped with hammocks. Though not on the beach, this hotel has direct access – a short 200m walk through the forest to get there. Credit cards accepted.
Shawandha Lodge (2750-0018; www.shawandhalodge.com; d incl breakfast US$105; ) Run by the wonderfully serene and stylish Mako, this upscale lodge has 13 private, spacious, demure bungalows painted in soothing earth tones and equipped with expansive mosaic-tiled bathrooms, each of which boasts a different natural theme. A meticulously maintained thatched rancho serves as an open-air lounge (perfect for cocktails) and the French-Caribbean restaurant (mains ₡6900 to ₡8600; open from 7am to 9:30pm) serves fusion dishes such as ginger sea bass cooked in banana leaves. Credit cards accepted.
PUNTA UVA
Punta Uva is known for the region’s most swimmable beaches, each lovelier than the next. Don’t miss the turnoff to the point, about 7km east of Puerto Viejo.
Costa Rica Tree House Lodge (2750-0706; www.costaricatreehouse.com; d from US$200-390, extra person US$50; ) For adventurers that like their lodgings rustic and whimsical, this wonderful spot run by energetic former economist Edsart Besier is the place for you. Five units of various sizes dot four jungle-filled hectares, including a literal ‘tree house’ – a two-storey cabin built around the base of a living sangrillo tree. All are open-air and come equipped with mosquito nets, kitchens, BBQs and spacious decks with