Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [442]
Itaitá Villas (2750-0414; www.costaricaitaitavillas.com; d incl breakfast US$85-145; ) Eight bright green-and-yellow wood cabinas with no-nonsense rooms are nestled into the forest along the beach. Units each come with a small outdoor kitchen and deck, as well as a safe. A few rooms accommodate four people. Credit cards accepted.
Selvin’s Restaurant (mains ₡2800-8000; 8am-8pm Wed-Sun) Selvin is a member of the extensive Brown family, noted for their charm, and his place is considered one of the region’s best, specializing in shrimp, lobster and a succulent chicken caribeño (chicken stewed in a spicy Caribbean sauce).
Casa Viva (2750-0089; www.puntauva.net; d per night/week from US$100/600; ) Enormous well-constructed, fully furnished hardwood houses, each with tiled shower, kitchen and wraparound veranda, are set on a property that fronts the beach – an ideal spot in which to chill out in a hammock and observe the local wildlife.
Arrecife Restaurant (2759-9200; www.arrecifepuntauva.net; mains ₡3500-8000; 8am-10pm) Located on the second turn-off into Punta Uva, this popular beachside restaurant attracts expats and locals for a mix of Tico and international specialties, including tasty looking sandwiches. It also rents a few tiled cabinas (doubles US$60) with tiled floors and bathrooms.
Cabinas Angela (2759-9092; r per person US$10) The lap of luxury, it isn’t. But if you’re counting colones and have to be near the beach, these bare-bones, super basic, adequately clean cabinas with cool-water showers will probably do just fine. It’s about 100m to the east of Arrecife Restaurant.
Korrigan Lodge (2759-9103; www.korriganlodge.com; d incl breakfast US$70; ) Four beautiful wood and concrete bungalows are topped with thatched roofs and nestled into a patch of lush jungle. All units have minibar, safe, modern bathrooms and private terraces with hammocks, plus all guests have access to free bikes. Breakfast is served in an open-air rancho surrounded by gardens. Credit cards accepted.
El Colibrí Lodge (2759-9036; www.elcolibrilodge.com; d/tr incl breakfast US$65/85, 2-bedroom house US$150; ) Perfect for couples and small families, you’ll find four gracious, well-tended rooms with private terraces at this lovely, locally run spot nestled into the rainforest – ideal for wildlife-watching. Breakfast is served on the terrace or in the privacy of your room. A 300m trail winds through the rainforest to the beach. Recommended.
Almonds & Corals Lodge (2759-9057/56, in San José 2272-2024; www.almondsandcorals.com; s/d US$235/300, s/d master ste US$315/400, additional child/adult from US$40/93, all incl breakfast & dinner; ) Buried deep in the woods, this long-time luxury spot popular with honeymooners has 24 sparkling wood suites of various sizes with four-poster beds, Jacuzzi tubs and private patios with hammocks. Rooms are screened-in, making them comfortable, but you’ll still be able to enjoy the nightly serenade of insects and frogs. Meals are served family-style in an open-air dining room. Credit cards accepted.
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MANZANILLO
The idyllic little village of Manzanillo has long been an off-the-beaten-track destination. Despite the fact that the paved roads arrived in 2003, this little town remains a vibrant outpost of Afro-Caribbean culture. It has also remained pristine – thanks to the 1985 establishment of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo, which includes the village and imposes strict regulations on development of the region.
Activities are of a simple nature: there are fine opportunities to hike, snorkel and kayak – depending on the swells. (As with other parts, ask about riptides before heading out.) Other than that, the rowdiest scene you might come across is the sight of children playing ball in the street. Not that there aren’t occasional parties – courtesy of the locally renowned Maxi’s bar and restaurant,