Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [443]
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Information
Aquamor Talamanca Adventures(2759-9012, 8835-6041; www.greencoast.com/aquamor.htm, www.costacetacea.com; 1-hr beach dive US$25, 2-tank boat dive from US$59) In addition to organizing scuba excursions, this reputable long-time outfit run by marine biologist Shawn Larkin and his wife Vanessa Schot is an excellent source of information on the refuge, the environment and the community. (Don’t let the gringo looks fool you: Larkin is half-Tico.) He also organizes dolphin-watching trips (US$40), kayak fishing excursions (US$30) and rents snorkel gear (per hour US$3). Highly recommended.
Casa de Guías (2759-9064) Opposite the Minae (Ministry of Environment and Energy) office, on the way into town, this small operation provides information on local guides, as well as internet access (per hour ₡1500). Ask about camping onsite.
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Sleeping & Eating
The following hotels have hot water, unless otherwise noted, and are listed from east to west.
Maxi’s Cabinas (2759-9042/9061/9073; r with/without air-con US$50/35; ) This family-owned standard-bearer close to the entrance of the park has half a dozen functional cabinas with clean, ceramic tile floors, minifridge, bathrooms and hot-water showers. Expect some noise from the bar on party nights.
Cabinas Something Different (2759-9014/97; d from US$35; ) About 200m south of Aquamor, you’ll find 18 simple cabinas named after local fauna. Rooms are equipped with minifridge and the welcoming owners can help organize tours.
Cabinas Las Veraneras (2759-9050; d from US$30; ) About 100m off the main drag, these 13 clean, simple cabinas smell of disinfectant. They are all equipped with TVs and hot water. The pleasant soda (breakfast ₡1800, mains ₡2200 to ₡5000) serves Caribbean and Tico standards.
Cabinas Manzanillo (2759-9033, 8839-8386; d/tr US$20/30; ) Run by the ever-helpful Sandra Castillo and Pablo Bustamante, these eight cabinas on the western end of town are so spic and span, you could eat off the shining tile floors. Rooms have big beds and are painted bright pastel colors, with industrial-strength ceiling fans and spacious bathrooms. Ask about discounts for extended stays. From Maxi’s, travel 300m along the main road in the direction of Punta Uva, then make a left onto the dirt road that leads to the southern part of town. Do not confuse with the dilapidated Hotel Manzanillo on the beach.
Cabinas Bucus (2759-9143; www.costa-rica-manzanillo.com; s US$20, d US$25-30; ) Four tidy, brightly painted tiled rooms in a two-storey mustard-yellow structure have mosquito nets and private bathrooms – and share a small kitchen with coffee maker and hot plate. Find them just beyond Cabinas Manzanillo. Omar, one of the co-owners, is one of Manzanillo’s top guides.
Congo Bongo (2759-9016; www.congo-bongo.com; d/tr/q US$125/150/175, per week US$750/900/1050; ) Just outside of town, on the road to Punta Uva, you’ll find six charming wooden cottages set in a reclaimed cacao plantation (now dense forest). They offer fully equipped kitchens and plenty of living space, including open-air terraces and strategically placed hammocks that are perfect for spying on the wildlife. A network of trails leads through the six hectares of grounds to the beautiful beach.
Maxi’s Restaurant (mains ₡2500-21,000, lobster from ₡9000; 6am-close; ) The most famous restaurant in Manzanillo attracts travelers from all over for large platters of tender, grilled seafood, whole red snappers (pargo rojo), steaks and Caribbean-style lobsters (the latter are expensive and not necessarily worth it). It also serves veggie grills and casados. Despite the scampering tourist hordes (especially at lunch), this is still a wonderful spot for a meal and a seaside beer – and the bar can get hopping on weekends, with live music and DJs cranking out everything from R&B to reggaetón.
Two good family-operated sodas for cheap, tasty casados are Mi Rinconcito Alegre