Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [444]
Need a break from casados? Try Oh La La (2759-9055; breakfast & lunch), a French cafe facing the beach that serves recommended crepes.
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Getting There & Away
Buses to Manzanillo depart from Puerto Viejo (₡400, 30 minutes) at 7:30am, noon, 4:30pm and 7:30pm. They return to Puerto Viejo at 5am, 8:15am, 12:45pm and 5:15pm. These buses all continue to Puerto Limón (₡2000, 2½ hours) for onward transfers.
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REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE GANDOCA-MANZANILLO
This little-explored refuge – called Regama for short – protects nearly 70% of the southern Caribbean coast, extending from Manzanillo all the way to the Panamanian border. It encompasses 50 sq km of land plus 44 sq km of marine environment. The peaceful, pristine stretch of sandy white beach is one of the area’s main attractions. It’s the center of village life in Manzanillo, and stretches for miles in either direction – from Punta Uva to Punta Mona in the east. Offshore, a 5-sq-km coral reef is a teeming habitat for lobster, sea fan and long-spined urchin.
Other than the village itself, and the surrounding farmland areas (these were grandfathered in when the park was created in 1985), the wildlife refuge is composed largely of rainforest. Cativo trees form the canopy, while there are many heliconia in the undergrowth. A huge, 400-hectare swamp – known as Pantano Punta Mona – provides a haven for waterfowl, as well as the country’s most extensive collection of holillo palms and sajo trees. Beyond Punta Mona, protecting a natural oyster bank, is the only red mangrove swamp in Caribbean Costa Rica. In the nearby Río Gandoca estuary there is a spawning ground for Atlantic tarpon, and caiman and manatee have been sighted.
The variety of vegetation and the remote location of the refuge attract many tropical birds; sightings of the rare harpy eagle have been recorded here. Other birds to look out for include the red-lored parrot, the red-capped manikin and the chestnut-mandibled toucan, among hundreds of others. The area is also known for incredible raptor migrations, with more than a million birds flying overhead during autumn.
Despite the idyllic nature of the environment, there has been some political squabbling between the Minae (the government agency that administers the national parks in Costa Rica) and some local businesses over the management of the refuge. Some local operators are trying to get the village excluded from the confines of the refuge – which would open the door to increased development in the area. (In fact, unapproved constructions have already materialized – some within 50m of the high tide line, a zone in which construction is prohibited by national law.) Others oppose it. It will likely take years – and armies of lawyers – to sort the mess out.
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Information
An excellent photo book on the area, with commentary in Spanish and English, is Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo by Juan José Puccí, available locally.
Minae (2759-9100; 8am-noon & 1-4pm) is located in the green wooden house as you enter town, and generally has trail maps of the refuge.
Aquamor Talamanca Adventures and Casa de Guías (see opposite) are also good sources of information on what to do in the park.
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Activities
HIKING
A coastal trail heads 5.5km east out of Manzanillo to Punta Mona. The first part of this path leads from Manzanillo to Tom Bay (about a 40-minute walk) is well-trammeled and clearly marked and doesn’t require a guide. Once you pass Tom Bay, however, the path gets murky and it’s easy to get lost – so ask about conditions before you set out or, if you’re unsure, hire a guide. It’s a rewarding walk – with amazing scenery, as well as excellent (and safe) swimming and snorkeling at the end.
Another more difficult 9km trail leaves from just west of Manzanillo and skirts the southern