Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [445]
SNORKELING & DIVING
The undersea portion of the park cradles one of two living coral reefs in the country. Comprising five different types of coral, the reefs begin in about 1m of water and extend 5km offshore to a barrier reef that local fishers have long relied on and researchers have only recently discovered. This colorful undersea world is home to some 400 species of fish and crustaceans. Punta Mona is a popular destination for snorkeling, though it’s a trek so you may wish to hire a boat (see below). Otherwise, you can snorkel offshore at Manzanillo at the eastern end of the beach (the riptide can be dangerous here; inquire about conditions before setting out).
As at Punta Uva and in Cahuita, conditions vary widely, and clarity can be adversely affected by weather changes. Visit the excellent coral reef information center (2759-9012, 8835-6041; www.greencoast.com/aquamor.htm, www.costacetacea.com; Aquamor Talamanca Adventures; 1-hr beach dive US$25, 2-tank boat dive from US$59, PADI certification US$350), housed at Aquamor Talamanca Adventures, where you can rent snorkeling equipment (per hour US$3) and organize dive excursions.
KAYAKING
You can explore some of the area’s waterways by kayak, available from Aquamor Talamanca Adventures (per hour US$5). Paddle out to the reef, or head up the Quebrada Home Wark, in the west of the village, or the tiny Simeon Creek, at the east end of the village. These are short paddles – ideal if you’ve got kids.
DOLPHIN-WATCHING
In 1997 a group of local guides in Manzanillo identified tucuxi dolphins, a little-known species previously not found in Costa Rica, and began to observe their interactions with the bottlenose dolphins. A third species – the Atlantic spotted dolphin – is also common in this area. This unprecedented activity has attracted the attention of marine biologists and conservationists, who are following these animals with great interest. Learn more about this work through the Talamanca Dolphin Foundation (2759-0715/612; www.dolphinlink.org), a not-for-profit dedicated to the study and preservation of local dolphin populations.
Aquamor Talamanca Adventures (see Tours, following) organizes dolphin-watching excursions for US$40 per person.
TURTLE-WATCHING
Marine turtles – especially leatherback but also green, hawksbill and loggerhead – all nest on the beaches between Punta Mona and the Río Sixaola. Leatherbacks nest from March to July, with a peak in April and May. Local conservation efforts are underway to protect these nesting grounds since the growth of the area’s human population has led to increased theft of turtle eggs.
During turtle season, no flashlights, beach fires or camping are allowed on the beach. All tourists must be accompanied by a local guide to minimize the disturbance to the nesting turtles.
Asociación Widecast (in San José 8818-2543; www.latinamericanseaturtles.org, www.widecast.org; volunteer fee per day about US$40) is a grassroots NGO with opportunities for volunteers on turtle-protection projects. Volunteers can assist in patrols, hatchery maintenance as well as research and beach clean-up efforts. Rates include training, homestay accommodations and three meals per day.
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Tours
Sure, you can explore the refuge on your own, but without a guide you’ll probably be missing out on the refuge’s incredible diversity of medicinal plants, exotic birds and earthbound animals. Most guides charge US$35 per person for a four- to five-hour trek, depending on the size of the group. Ask around at Maxi’s (Click here) or at the Casa de Guías (below).
Recommended local guides include Florentino Grenald (2759-9043, 8841-2732), who used to serve as the reserve’s administrator; Omar (2759-9143), at Cabinas Bucus,