Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [450]
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LA VIRGEN
Tucked into the densely jungled shores of the wild and scenic Río Sarapiquí, La Virgen was one of a number of small towns that grew and prospered during the heyday of the banana trade. Although United Fruit has long since packed up and shipped out, the town is still dependent on the river, though most people today earn a living by either mongering fish or guiding gringos through the rapids.
Welcome to one of the premier kayaking and rafting destinations in Costa Rica. Surprisingly, most travelers have never even heard about La Virgen, and those who have would be hard-pressed to find it on a map. But, to the dedicated groups of hard-core rafters and kayakers that spend days running the Río Sarapiquí, La Virgen is a relatively off-the-beaten-path paradise. As an added bonus, the three luxurious lodges east of town feature a number of interesting attractions including museums, private trails and a Maleku archaeological site – so there’s plenty to do in the area even on a rest day.
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Information
Most of La Virgen’s businesses are strung out along the highway, including a gas station, a Banco Nacional (2212-2000) with 24-hour ATM, a couple of small supermarkets, several internet cafes and many bars. The blue Almacenes El Colono (7am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4:30pm Sat) building contains a Western Union, money exchange and another 24-hour ATM. Across the street, Internet La Virgen (per hr ₡400; 8am-8pm) has fast connections.
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Sights & Activities
WHITE-WATER RAFTING
The Río Sarapiquí isn’t as wild as the white water on the Río Pacuare near Turrialba, though it will still get your heart racing, and the dense jungle that hugs the riverbank is lush and primitive. You can run the Sarapiquí year-round, but July through December are considered peak months. Although it’s possible to get a rafting trip on short notice, it’s far better to make reservations at least two days in advance. Several tour operators in La Fortuna and San José organize trips. You can also call directly to the companies listed in this section.
There are three basic runs offered by several companies, and all have a minimum age of nine or 10; prices and times vary a bit, but the following are average. The Class I-II Chilamate put-in (US$60 per person, three hours) is a gentle float more suited to younger kids and wildlife-watching. The Class III-IV Lower Sarapiquí (US$75, three hours) puts in close to La Virgen and is a scenic and challenging trip that’s a good choice for healthy people without white-water experience. The Class IV-V Upper Sarapiquí (US$85, five hours) is 11km of serious white water – perfect for thrill-seekers.
In addition to offering rafting trips from La Virgen, San José and La Fortuna, Aguas Bravas (2292-2072; www.aguas-bravas.co.cr) is a safety-oriented, Tico-run outfit that can also arrange horseback rides and bike tours.
Aventuras del Sarapiquí (2766-6768; www.sarapiqui.com) near Chilamate, and Hacienda Pozo Azul Adventures (2438-2616, in USA & Canada 877-810-6903; www.haciendapozoazul.com) are also reputable local professionals who organize rafting trips.
KAYAKING
If you’re a kayaker, several accommodations in town are directly on the river, which means that you can roll out of bed, brush your teeth and have a quick paddle before breakfast. Rancho Leona (2761-1019; www.rancholeona.com) is something of a meeting spot for kayakers, which isn’t surprising as its prime riverside location allows for easy launches and free kayak storage (Click here for more information). Staff can provide information regarding launches in the area before you set out on the river.
HIKING
For truly rugged do-it-yourself adventurers, it’s possible to hike from La Virgen to the southernmost ranger stations in Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo. For more information on hiking in Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo.
OTHER ACTIVITIES
Hacienda