Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [451]
SERPENTARIO
A great, locally run attraction is La Virgen’s famous snake garden (2761-1059; adult/student & child US$7/6; 9am-5pm), where you can get face-to-face with more than 60 different species of reptiles and amphibians, including poison-dart frog, anaconda and the star attraction, an 80kg Burmese python. The owner of the serpentario, Lydia, gives impromptu tours and takes certain snakes out of their cages for big hugs and memorable photo ops. The mural outside is most definitely tattoo-worthy.
CENTRO BIOLóGICO SANTUARIO DE MARIPOSAS AGUAS SILVESTRES
You’ll need your own wheels, or you can make arrangements through Rancho Leona (below), to visit this butterfly sanctuary (2761-1095) in the mountains, run by the energetic Edgar Corrales. Guided hikes (in Spanish; US$12) take you through the rainforest along a waterfall trail and include a tour of the butterfly garden. You can also stay overnight in the rustic bunkhouse (per person US$40); the rate includes dinner, breakfast, a half-day tour of the local rainforest with a swim in the lagoon, and lunch on your return. However long your stay, be sure to bring bug repellent, as butterflies are not the only insects living up there.
To get here on your own, turn onto the Pozo Azul road and follow the brown wood signs to the sanctuary, which is about 10km up the mountain, near the village of San Ramón.
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Sleeping & Eating
Sarapiquí Outdoor Center (2761-1123; www.costaricaraft.com; campsites US$5, r US$25; ) Riverside campsites here have access to showers and bathrooms. Private rooms are simple and have river views, though they’re a bit overpriced for what they are. There’s also a communal kitchen and a covered terrace in case of rain. Contrary to the signs out front, this location no longer offers rafting excursions, but staff can help get you in touch with the tour office.
Bar & Cabinas El Río (2761-0138; r with fan/air-con US$10/15; ) About 1km from Pozo Azul at the southern edge of town, these seven A-frame bungalows have tiled floors, clean hot-water bathroom and TV – they’re cute as heck and bordered with hedges and flowers. About 100m further down the steep hill is the lovely open-air Bar El Río, on rough-hewn stilts high above the river. This is the best nightlife spot in town, especially on Fridays when it’s karaoke night. The family-run bar also has a great dinner menu such as grilled local tilapia and sides for just ₡3000.
Rancho Leona (2761-1019; www.rancholeona.com; r without bathroom per person US$12; ) This shady, riverside spot is a gem – kayakers congregate here to swap tales of white-water adventure, bird-watchers linger over huge breakfasts (₡3500) as the local color of avian life flits by, and artistically minded travelers admire the lodge’s incredible stained glass, which was handmade by the owners. The handful of simple, spotless rooms in the wood-plank lodge share hot-water bathrooms, and there’s a small bathing pool for taking a cool dip; spa services are also available. The superfriendly staff sometimes prepare family-style dinners in the evenings, and they can take you out on inflatable ‘ducky’ or kayak trips, as well as arrange rafting tours for you.
Hacienda Pozo Azul Adventures (2438-2616, in USA & Canada 877-810-6903; www.haciendapozoazul.com; s/d/tr luxury tents US$80/92/115; ) If you’ve ever dreamed of camping in the rainforest, this is your chance to do it in style. Located near the south end of La Virgen, Pozo Azul features luxurious, recently remodelled ‘tent suites’ scattered on the edge of the treeline, all on raised, polished-wood platforms and outfitted with luxurious bedding, bathroom and mosquito nets.