Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [465]
Gringo traffic is on the rise in Los Chiles as it’s a great base for enjoying the scenic water route to Caño Negro, and an early morning excursion by small motorized boat is an adventure in itself. The second big draw is the scenic route to Nicaragua, a one-hour boat ride across the border that is becoming increasingly popular among foreign tourists. Crossing the border via the river is a relaxing, hassle-free way to go.
Although the road continues past Los Chiles to Nicaragua, this border post is closed to pretty much everyone. The police patrolling this line in the sand are heavily armed and extremely bored, so don’t waste your time and energy trying your luck there.
Return to beginning of chapter
Information & Orientation
The last stretch of paved road along Hwy 35 is home to a few restaurants, the post office and a gas station. If you continue north past Los Chiles on the rutted dirt road, you’ll find yourself in the dusty no-man’s-land en route to a border crossing you won’t be allowed to use.
Drivers will want to hang a left (west) off the highway when you see the sign for Pali grocery store to reach the town center and docks of the Río Frío. Most services are located along this road. The bus terminal is tucked behind Soda Pamela. One block west is the post office (8am-noon & 1-5:30pm Mon-Fri). Banco Nacional (2212-2000), close to the central park and soccer field, changes cash and traveler’s cheques and has a 24-hour ATM. Just down the road, around the side of the pink boutique, is Multiservicios J&Q Internet Cafe (2471-1636; per hr ₡600; 8:30am-noon & 2-8pm Mon-Sat). There’s a Cruz Roja (Red Cross; 2471-1037/2025) on the west side of the plaza if you need some basic medical assistance or supplies.
The docks are located about 1km west of the bus terminal. If you’re going by foot from the bus terminal, turn right onto the main street, walk one block past Cruz Roja, turn left, then make an immediate right downhill to the waterfront.
Before hopping on the boat to Nicaragua, you need to stop at the migración (immigration;2471-1233; 8am-noon & 1:30-4pm), across the street from Hotel Tulipán. See boxed text, for details on crossing into Nicaragua.
Return to beginning of chapter
Tours
Los Chiles is a convenient base to organize your tours to Caño Negro. You’ll be able to get on the river early, which means you’ll probably see more wildlife than folks being shuttled in from La Fortuna and San José. The port is also a good jumping-off point for exploring the islands of Lago de Nicaragua (Lake Nicaragua), and if you miss the early boat, the local tour companies can sometimes arrange private transportation to San Carlos, Nicaragua.
You can arrange tours with Oscar Rojas at Heliconia Tours & Restaurant (2471-2096, 8307-8585), on the road between the migración and the dock, or at Rancho Tulipán (2471-1414; www.ranchotulipan.com). Viajes y Excursiones Cabo Rey (2471-1251, 8839-7458) provides a boat service to the refuge (from US$51) as well as to El Castillo and the islas Solentiname in Nicaragua. Cabo himself can usually be found by the dock.
GETTING TO SAN CARLOS, NICARAGUA
Although there’s a 14km dirt road between Los Chiles and San Carlos, Nicaragua, using this crossing requires special permission generally reserved for federal employees. Most regular folk go across by boat on the Río Frío, which is easily arranged in Los Chiles. You must first get an exit stamp in your passport at the migración (immigration; 2471-1223; 8am-noon & 1:30-4pm), about 100m east of the