Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [466]
Regular boats (₡5800, 90 minutes) leave Los Chiles at 12:30pm and 3:30pm daily, with extra boats at 11am and 2:30pm if demand is high. Boats leave San Carlos for Los Chiles at 10:30am and 4pm, with extra boats scheduled as needed. Of course, the Nicaragua–Costa Rica border is not known for its reliability, so confirm these times before setting out. Nicaragua charges a US$7 entry fee and US$2 exit fee. Los Chiles municipality charges a ₡580 exit and entry fee; after getting your passport stamped at migración, walk down to the docks and pay the exit fee at the yellow Recaudador Municipal office. Reverse this procedure if you are arriving here from Nicaragua.
Your boat will make a stop at the actual border post about halfway through the trip; note the psychedelic ‘camouflage’ paint job on the building where your friendly, gun-wielding Nicaraguan border personnel are based.
When you hit the confluence of the Río San Juan, consider keeping your fingers and toes in the boat as there are river sharks (seriously!). Sharks are one of several euryhaline species that are able to survive in both fresh- and saltwater conditions. Every year, sharks that have been tagged by scientists in the Caribbean Sea are later found swimming in Lake Nicaragua. Although the rapids of the Río San Juan are a deterrent for most species of marine fish, sharks are apparently able to negotiate the river without problems, and presumably head for fresh water in search of food.
From San Carlos, which has a similar range of services to Los Chiles, you can arrange bus, boat or plane transportation to Managua, Granada and other destinations in Nicaragua. If you’re looking to experience the Nica side of life, here’s a quick list of the country’s nearby highlights:
Float down to El Castillo, one of Nicaragua’s historical fortresses, accessible only by boat and one of the most chilled-out spots.
Explore the twin volcanoes of Isla Ometepe, a strong contender for the world’s most beautiful island.
Pay a visit to the local artists on the Islas Solentiname, where art is truly the heartbeat of the community.
See boxed text, for more information on southwestern Nicaragua.
At the boat dock you can also hire boat captains to take you up the Río Frío during the dry season and all the way into Lago Caño Negro during the rainy season, as well as to San Carlos, Nicaragua (see boxed text). Three- to four-hour trips cost about US$50 to US$90 for a small group, depending on the size and type of boat.
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Festivals & Events
This sleepy little town bursts to life during the October 4 Feast of San Francisco. Occasionally, festivities are held in Los Chiles during the irregularly scheduled Binational Green Macaw Festival, so look out for information.
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Sleeping & Eating
Accommodations in town are surprisingly limited, though most people aren’t too keen on sticking around anyhow.
Cabinas Jabirú (2471-1496, 8898-6357; r US$17; ) Named for the rare, large jabiru stork (Jabiru mycteria) that can sometimes be seen at Caño Negro, this worn but clean spot near the bus terminal has bare rooms with hot-water bathrooms.
No Frills Hotel, Bar & Restaurant (2471-1200/410; r US$20; ) This hotel, about 1km south of Los Chiles just past the gas station, is not, in fact, completely frill-free. Though basic, rooms here are clean and quiet (except for the honking of resident geese), with air-con and TV; some even have a full-sized fridge. The restaurant-bar is open for lunch and dinner, and the proprietors can also arrange fishing and boat tours.
Hotel Tulipán (2471-1414; www.ranchotulipan.com; s/d/tr US$20/25/35; ) Remodeled in 2009, Hotel Tulipán is the most respectable accommodations in town, though it’s also home to a very popular (read: noisy!) bar that becomes a discotheque on Wednesdays and Fridays. All the rooms have air-con, hot-water bathroom and cable TV, and it’s conveniently located