Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [467]
Soda Juanita (2471-1607; mains ₡1100-3000; 6am-6pm) Right next to the dock, this cheery, bright-green soda serves up tasty casados, the usual deep-fried fast foods, batidos (fruit shakes) and coffee. Seating at the counter or at one of the thatch-shaded tables makes a sweet spot to watch the world go by and await your boat to Nicaragua.
Restaurante El Parque (2471-1373/090; mains ₡1800-4000; 6am-9pm) This popular spot facing the plaza has some of the best eats in town, and it’s open early if you’re looking to get your coffee fix before setting out on the river.
There’s a Palí two blocks north of the bus stop, and the local Almacén de Los Chiles on the west side of the soccer field to meet all of your grocery and bakery needs.
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Getting There & Away
Drivers usually get here via Hwy 35 from Muelle, about 70 paved, straight kilometers where you’re likely to get passed by big-rig drivers with lead feet. Skid marks and roadkill iguanas do break up the monotony of endless sugarcane plantations. More scenic, if a little harder on your chassis, is the decent dirt road running for 50km from Upala, through Caño Negro, passable for normal cars throughout the dry season.
Regular boat transportation is limited to quick shuttles across the Nicaraguan border (₡5800) and various day trips throughout the region.
All buses arrive and leave from the terminal behind Soda Pamela, near the intersection of Hwy 35. Timetables are flexible, so play it safe and inquire locally.
Ciudad Quesada ₡1700; two hours; departs 12 times daily from 5am to 7pm.
San José ₡3000; five hours; departs 5am and 3pm.
Upala via Caño Negro ₡1400; 2½ hours; departs 5am & 4pm.
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REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE CAÑO NEGRO
Because of the region’s relative remoteness (although this has changed in recent years with the improvement of roads), this 102-sq-km refuge has long been frequented primarily by two sorts of specialists. Anglers come in search of that elusive 18kg snook, though they abandon ship April through July, when the park is closed to fishing (a good time to get a bargain price on accommodations). Bird-watchers alight on the refuge each year from January through March to spot an unequalled assortment of waterfowl. During the dry season water levels drop, with the effect of concentrating the birds (and fish) in photogenically (or tasty) close quarters. From January to March, when migratory birds land in large numbers, avian density is most definitely world-class.
The Río Frío defines the landscape – a table-flat, swampy expanse of marsh that is similar in appearance to other famous wetlands such as the Florida Everglades or the Mekong Delta. During the wet season, the river breaks its banks to form an 800-hectare lake, and then contracts during the dry months from January through April, when water levels drop to the point where the river is barely navigable. By April it has almost completely disappeared – until the May rains begin. This cycle has proceeded without fail for millennia, and the small fishing communities that live around the edges of the reserve have adapted to each seasonal nuance of their environment.
Thanks to improved roads, dozens of tour operators are now able to offer relatively inexpensive trips to Caño Negro from all over the country. However, it’s advisable to book your trip through a reputable tour company as it’s fairly common practice for operators to save on park fees by taking tourists on a boat ride through swampy private property that is by all accounts lovely, though not Caño Negro. If you’re more independently minded, you’ll save yourself a little money (and have a much better experience) by heading directly to the park without a tour operator, and hiring a local guide in town. This practice is recommended as it puts money directly in the hands of locals, and encourages