Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [58]
Colours Oasis Resort (off Map; 2296-1880, in USA 866-517-4390; www.coloursoasis.com; Blvr Rohrmoser, cnr of El Triangulo; d/ste from US$89/149; ) This longtime gay and lesbian hotel in the elegant Rohrmoser district (to the northwest of La Sabana) is located in a sprawling Spanish colonial–style complex. Here, rooms and mini-apartments of various sizes and configurations have paddle fans, modern furnishings and impeccable bathrooms. Facilities include a TV lounge, minigym, pool, sundeck and Jacuzzi – as well as an onsite bar-restaurant, an ideal spot for an evening cocktail. The helpful owners speak English, French and Spanish and can offer all kinds of helpful insights on gay travel in the country. Call ahead for directions.
Hotel Grano de Oro (Map; 2255-3322; www.hotelgranodeoro.com; Calle 30 btwn Avs 2 & 4; d US$115-165, f/garden/vista-del-oro ste US$175/210/305; ) In the central part of San José, Grano de Oro is a favorite of honeymooners and it’s not difficult to see why. Built around a sprawling early 20th-century Victorian mansion, this elegant inn has 40 demure ‘Tropical Victorian’ rooms furnished with wrought-iron beds and rich brocade linens. Remodeled in 2007, eight units maintain the hotel’s historic look while boasting private courtyards with gurgling fountains. The lobby is punctuated by a dramatic mahogany staircase and the public areas sparkle with fresh tropical flowers and polished wood accents. If you want to experience the Costa Rica of a gilded age, this would be the place to do it. The hotel is also home to the recommended Restaurante Grano de Oro (Click here).
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Cariari Area
The residential district of Cariari is located in the nether region between San José and Alajuela and is convenient if you need to stay close to the airport. The following places are best reached by private vehicle or taxi.
Cariari Bed & Breakfast (2239-2585, in USA 866-224-8339; www.cariaribb.com; Av de la Marina 12; d incl breakfast US$75-90; ) This charming B&B is run by a friendly North American named Laurie and features three guest rooms of varying sizes and amenities, including one with a private deck. There are plenty of common areas in this stunning Spanish-colonial home, including a tropical garden, a TV lounge and a roof deck.
There are also a number of top-end chain resorts, which are equipped with all manner of amenities, including golf privileges at the nearby country club:
Doubletree Cariari by Hilton (2239-0022; doubletree1.hilton.com; d/ste/2-bedroom ste from US$119/189/259; )
Hotel Ramada Plaza Herradura (2209-9800/9841; www.ramadaherradura.com; d/ste/master ste incl breakfast from US$130/205/535; )
Marriott San José (2298-0000, in USA & Canada 888-236-2427; www.mariott.com; d standard/d superior/master ste from US$170/240/450; ) The best of the chain bunch.
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EATING
From humble corner stands dishing out gut-filling casados to contemporary bistros serving fusion everything, in cosmopolitan San José you will find the country’s best restaurant scene. Dedicated eaters should also check out the dining options in Los Yoses and San Pedro (Click here), as well as Escazú (Click here).
Top-end restaurants tend to get busy on weekend evenings; make a reservation.
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Central San José East
Long-standing neighborhood sodas (lunch counters) mix effortlessly with contemporary cafes and Asian-fusion eateries on San José’s eclectic east side.
GROCERIES
Auto Mercado (Map; 2233-5511; www.automercado.co.cr; cnr Calle 3 & Av 3; 7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-3pm Sun) One of the better supermarkets, with a good selection of cheeses, produce, liquor, coffee and chocolate.
Perimercado (Map; 2222-2252; Calle 3 btwn Avs Central & 1; 7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-3pm Sun) A more economical chain.
RESTAURANTS
Budget
Café Valandra (Map; 2248-2196; cnr Av 7 & Calle 5; sandwiches ₡400-2700; 10am-7pm