Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [59]
El Torito (Map; 2256-0220; Av 7 btwn Calles 7 & 9; breakfast ₡990, casados ₡3000; 7am-8pm) Within sight of the Museo de Jade, El Torito is an informal cafe-bakery stocked with sweet and savory turnovers and freshly baked breads. They also serve a short list of lunch specials (think roasted chicken with rice and beans) at comfortable prices.
Restaurante La Criollita (Map; 2256-6511; Av 7 btwn Calles 7 & 9; breakfast ₡1200, casados ₡3500-3600; 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm Sat) A couple of doors down from El Torito is this homier local spot popular with office types, which dishes out a changing menu of simple Costa Rican specialties, such as stewed chicken or grilled fish. The setting is pleasant, the service efficient and you can accompany your meal with a glass of Chilean cabernet (₡1600).
Huarache’s (off Map; 2239-2828; Av 22 btwn Calles 5 & 7; mains ₡1700-3000; 11am-11pm) This bustling Mexican restaurant on a nondescript block near Plaza Víquez (350m east of the Hospital de la Mujer) makes up for all the bland meals you’ve had in Costa Rica. Here you’ll find fresh honest-to-goodness tacos, quesadillas, guacamole, tortilla soup and hot sauces that’ll make you think you’ve died and gone to Mexico.
Vishnu (Map; Calle Central btwn Avs 6 & 8, cnr Av 4 & Calle 1; breakfast ₡1800, casados ₡2400-3000, mains ₡2400-5500; 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; ) You’ll find a rainbow of fresh local produce, vegetable stews and well-rendered soy burgers at this informal chain of vegetarian cheapies. Most folks pile in for the inexpensive lunch specials, which generally include salad, fresh juice and dessert. There are vegan specialties as well.
Restaurante Shakti (Map; 2222-4475; cnr Av 8 & Calle 13; mains ₡2200-4500, casados ₡2700; 7:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat; ) This informal neighborhood health-food outpost has simple, organic-focused cooking as well as freshly baked goods. Favorites include veggie burgers, along with various fish dishes, but most people arrive for the casado of the day – which is always vegetarian.
Bar Morazán (Map; 2222-4622; 2nd fl, Calle 7 btwn Avs 1 & 3; lunch casados ₡2300; 11am-2pm) Walk through the dim, smoky lobby casino of the Hotel Costa Rica Morazán up to the 2nd floor and you will be rewarded with one of the cheapest, most filling almuerzos ejecutivos (set lunches) in San José. On weekdays, the bar serves a rotating daily special that pulls in local office workers for platters piled with items like fried fish with lentils, rice and green salad. The price includes juice and dessert. The best part: you get to enjoy your meal before a sublime wall-sized mural of dogs playing poker.
Restaurante Isabel (Map; 2233-4687; Calle 19 btwn Avs 7 & 9; casados ₡2400; 8am-11pm Mon-Sat) A mix of regulars and medical professionals (the Hospital Calderón Guardia is right across the street) jam into the long Formica tables for generously portioned daily specials – such as grilled chicken with rice, beans and fresh cabbage slaw.
Chelle’s (Map; cnr Av Central & Calle 9; casados ₡2500; 24hr) This unpretentious spot serves basic sandwiches and casados – none of which are very exciting. Regardless, josefinos will tell you that you haven’t experienced San José until you’ve had a wee-hours breakfast here after a night of drinking – and there’s a bar in case you want to keep going.
Café del Teatro Nacional (Map; Plaza de la Cultura; dishes ₡2700-4400; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12:30pm & 1:30-5:30pm Sat) One of the most beautiful cafes in the city, this atmospheric spot evokes early 20th-century Vienna. In other words, a perfect place to sip cappuccino and take in the lovely ceiling frescoes.
Midrange
Kalú Café & Food Shop (Map; 2221-2081; www.kalu.co.cr; cnr Calle 7 & Av 11; breakfast ₡2500-3250, sandwiches ₡4100-4600, mains ₡5450-8650; 9:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11:30am-9:30pm Sat; ) Sharing a sleek space with the Kiosco SJO design store (Click here),