Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [75]
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Eating
Succulent Turkish sandwiches, Caribbean-style rondón (seafood gumbo), steaming pizzas – you can find just about every type of food in the narrow streets of San Pedro and Los Yoses, including quaint neighborhood spots well off the tourist trail.
BUDGET
Giacomin (Map; 2224-3463; Av Central east of Calle 37, Los Yoses; pastries from ₡700; 8am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon & 2-6:30pm Sat) Obscured by a parking lot to the east of the Automercado is this small, 1960s pastry shop that josefinos swear is the best in town. Here you’ll find delicious mushroom minipizzas, flaky croissants and what has to be Central America’s best cinnamon roll (arrollado de canela). There’s a sweet selection of chocolate-dipped butter cookies, too. The tranquil upstairs lounge is a perfect haven in which to sip cappuccino and read a book.
El Buen Comer (off Map; 2233-3857; Av Central, 200m west of Bagelmens, Los Yoses; breakfast ₡800-1750, lunch casados ₡1900; 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) Popular with office workers, this homey, two-story soda is an excellent bet for budget-minded folks looking for tasty Tico home-style cooking, including casados and gallo pinto (a common meal of blended rice and beans).
Bagelmens (Map; 800-212-1314; www.bagelmenscr.com; cnr Av Central & Calle 33; breakfast ₡1000-2000; 7am-9pm; ) It’s not Brooklyn, but if you’ve been on the gallo pinto diet, you’ll be glad to know that Bagelmens offers decent bagels – as well as delicious freshly made waffles, supermoist banana bread and surprisingly good Italian gelatos (pistachio is our favorite). Bonus: there’s free wi-fi for customers.
Spoon (Map; 2253-1331; Av 8; dishes ₡1500-6000; 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) The Los Yoses branch of this local chain also serves as a local landmark. The menu is extensive and the big breakfasts are tops (especially after a long night of drinking). Better yet, the tables are made out of refurbished Regina sewing machines. Sew cool.
Comida Para Sentir (Map; 100m north of Iglesia de San Pedro, San Pedro; casados ₡1600-2800; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri; ) This informal, bustling student spot serves an international menu of veggie everything including curried rice with cashews, vegetable casados, whole-grain sandwiches and a mean cappuccino.
La Canastita (off Map; 2221-3816; cnr Av Central & Calle 25, Los Yoses; mains ₡1800-3000; 11:30am-11pm) This strip-light-and-plastic-table joint serves up delicious casados and blares out soccer to animated punters. It is a local favorite.
Aya Sofya (Map; 2224-5050; cnr Calle 33 & Av 1, Los Yoses; dishes ₡2600-7900; 7am-7pm Mon-Sat; ) A hidden gem with a diminutive outdoor patio serves a variety of Turkish and Mediterranean specialties, including fresh hummus, green salads laced with feta cheese, chicken sandwiches doused with tangy yogurt sauce and a rotating selection of daily specials. Don’t miss their impeccable (and razor-thin) apple tart, perfect with an inky shot of Turkish coffee.
Pane e Vino (Map;2280-2869; 150m east & 25m south of Scotiabank; pizzas ₡3100-8000; 5pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Sun; ) Delicate superthin-crust pizza comes in 90 different variations at this rustic San Pedro family spot, where you can satisfy your cravings for salame picante (pepperoni). The heaping bowls of pasta are a deal, including the delicious Pasta Pane e Vino, penne in a light tomato sauce studded with artichokes and mushrooms. There is a decent selection of wine (from ₡4100). Recommended.
For self-caterers, try Más x Menos (Map; Av Central, San Pedro) and Automercado (Map; Av Central btwn Calles 39 & 41, Los Yoses) – large, modern supermarkets that stock plenty of everything. The latter has a good selection of