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MIDRANGE

Olio (Map; 2281-0541; cnr Calle 33 & Av 3; tapas ₡2300-5500, dishes ₡5700-8900; 11:30am-1am Mon-Fri, 4pm-midnight Sat; ) This cozy, Mediterranean-flavored gastropub serves a long list of tempting tapas, including divine stuffed mushrooms (hongos madrileños), goat-cheese croquettes and garlic shrimp. There are also more than 17 house-made pastas to choose from and a decent beer and wine list (bottles from ₡13,500). Don’t miss desert, specifically vanilla ice cream doused in coffee liqueur.

Ichiban (Map; 2291-5220; Centro Comercial Calle Real, Av Central, 50m east of Antiguo Banco Popular; maki rolls ₡2500-11,000, mains ₡3500-13,000; noon-3pm & 6:30-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun) You’ll find all things Japanese at this modern San Pedro sushi bar, which dishes up well-rendered ramen, teppanyaki and specialty sushi rolls. They even have a Tico Roll (₡6200), which comes loaded with cream cheese, shiitake mushrooms, fried plantains and crab.

Il Pomodoro (San Pedro; pizzas ₡3300-10,000; ) Iglesia (Map; 2224-0966; 75m north of Iglesia de San Pedro; closed Tue); Parque (Map; 2283-1010; 100m south of Outlet Mall; closed Mon; ) This very popular family chain draws office workers, families and packs of expats for fresh-from-the-oven pizzas topped with everything from olives to shellfish. Parents will appreciate the expansive location on the park, and there are even high chairs and changing stations.

Le Chandelier (Map; 2225-3980; 100m west & 100m south of El Antiguo ICE, Los Yoses; mains ₡5500-13,500; 11:30am-2pm & 6:30-10pm Mon-Fri, 6:30-10pm Sat) Whether you’re sitting next to the fireplace or outside on the patio, it’s hard to find a more romantic place than this two-decade-old Los Yoses outpost. Here, chef Claude Dubuis serves traditional French specialties (think duck à l’orange) with a few Costa Rican flourishes. Save room for the crêpes suzette for two (₡6000) – and bon appétit!

Restaurante Whapin (Map; 2228-1480; cnr Calle 35 & Av 13, 200m east of El Farolito, Barrio Escalante; mains ₡7600-10,500; 8am-2:30pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat) If you don’t make it to the Caribbean, then absolutely make sure you eat here: an intimate corner spotpainted Rasta red, yellow and green, and serving up spectacularly delicious meals. Enjoy a steamy bowl of rondón (seafood gumbo cooked in coconut milk), a plate of rice and red beans, or fish simmered in spicy coconut sauce. Don’t forget the fried plantains and, in season, the crisp breadfruit. Wash it all down with agua de sapo, a zesty sweet ginger drink.

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Drinking

Calle La Amargura (Sorrow Street; Map; San Pedro) This is what Calle 3 is known as, to the north of Av Central. However, it should be called Calle de la Cruda (Street of Hangovers) because it has the highest concentration of bars of any single street in town, and many of these are packed with customers (mainly university students) even during daylight hours. Places come and go, but Terra U (50m north of Av Central), Caccio’s (150m north of Av Central) and Tavarúa (across the street) are longtime party spots. The area gets rowdy in the wee hours: watch out for drunks and pickpockets.

Río Bar (Map; Av Central, west of Calle 43, Los Yoses) Just west of the fountain, this popular bar with an upstairs lounge has live bands on some nights and a pyrotechnic house drink called the cucaracha (cockroach). Early in the evening it’s a good spot to watch the rush-hour traffic crawl by in the company of an after-work crowd.

Sand Rock Bar (Map; Centro Comercial Cocorí, 50m south of Fuente de la Hispanidad, Los Yoses) A raucous beer-swilling spot that gets rolling at 5pm and keeps going until the last customer leaves. Expect the soundtrack to be rock, rock and more rock – with some heavy metal thrown in to spice things up.

Tao (Map; 2225-5696; www.taorestolounge.com; Calle 41 btwn Avs Central & 8; cocktails from ₡3000) A dimly lit lounge decorated with lots of Buddhas, this hip spot has fusion cocktails and decent Vietnamese appetizers, including satay and spring