Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [80]
OUTSIDE ESCAZÚ
Three kilometers west of Escazú is the affluent expat suburb of Santa Ana. On the road between the two is the Alta Hotel (off Map; 2282-4160; www.thealtahotel.com; d/ste from US$149/169; ), a graceful Mediterranean-style villa with 23 whitewashed rooms decked out in terra-cotta tiles and contemporary wood furnishings. Expansive bathrooms are clad in Spanish tiles and come equipped with hair dryers and robes. Rooms on the 4th and 5th floors have the best views: on a clear day it’s possible to see all the way to the Pacific. Service is attentive and there is a pool, concierge services and a restaurant, La Luz (see opposite).
A COSTA RICAN ART COLONY
If you work in the arts and want to spend some time in Costa Rica, the Julia and David White Artists’ Colony (off Map;2249-1414; www.forjuliaanddavid.org; studio apt for 2 weeks from US$425; ) offers the perfect refuge. Located 16km west of Escazú, the 5-hectare compound in the hills surrounding Ciudad Colón comes equipped with a swimming pool, hiking trails and comfortable studios.
Five kilometers beyond Santa Ana, on the old, picturesque road to Ciudád Colón, you’ll find Hotel El Marañon (off Map;2249-1271; www.cultourica.com; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$49/69/85/99; ). A bright mustard-yellow building, surrounded by fruit orchards, it has 20 simple cabins with firm beds. Some rooms have staggering views of the Central Valley. This is an environmentally minded place, powered by solar energy and scrubbed with biodegradable cleansers. A small onsite restaurant serves three meals daily; yoga is sometimes available.
Return to beginning of chapter
Eating
You’ll find a little bit of everything in Escazú, from homey Tico spots to global fusion eateries.
BUDGET
Panadería y Repostería (Map; 2289-7750; cnr Av Central & Calle 5, Escazú Centro; items from ₡300; 7am-5pm Mon-Sat;) This bright-red corner bakery is a great spot to pick up fresh bread, cookies and doughnuts.
Rice ‘n’ Smile (Map; Atlantis Plaza, San Rafael; rice pudding ₡1000; 10am-8pm Sun-Thu, 10am-9pm Fri & Sat; ) This contemporary new spot in the Atlantis Plaza shopping center serves a rotating selection of more than 30 scrumptious flavors of rice pudding. Dulce de leche (caramel) is a sticky-sweet favorite.
La Casona de Laly (Map; cnr Av 3 & Calle Central, Escazú Centro; bocas ₡1000-2200, casados ₡1900, mains ₡2200-7000; 11am-12:30am Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) At the heart of Escazú Centro, this much-loved restaurant-tavern specializes in country-style Tico fare. Locals and expats alike pack the joint for cheap, lip-smacking bocas, ice-cold beers and a soundtrack of merengue accompanied by the cackling of the owner’s pet birds, who inhabit the cages that line the entire west wall of the restaurant. Be sure to try the dados de queso (fried cheese cubes) – they are the best.
Soda Pintico (Map; 2nd fl, cnr Av Central & Calle 2, Escazú Centro; mains ₡1100-2800; casados ₡1700; 7am-6pm Mon-Sat) This cheap and charming soda located on the 2nd floor of the Escazú Centro Commercial Plaza is tiny but the casado portions are just right. There is no menu to speak of; ask what’s cooking.
La Esquina Argentina (Map; 2288-2811; cnr Av Central & Calle Cortés, Escazú Centro; dishes ₡1200-4400;7am-2pm Mon-Fri) This popular roadside stand sells piping-hot empanadas, smoked meats and tasty mashed potatoes. The outdoor patio is a good spot to linger over a cup of coffee.
Perro Loco (Map; Centro Comercial El Cruce, cnr Calle Cortés & Carretera John F Kennedy, San Rafael; hot dogs ₡1680-4470; noon-8pm Mon-Tue, noon-4am Wed-Sat, 4-10pm Sun) If you’ve been boozing it up, this greasy spoon is what you need. ‘Crazy Dog’ serves eight internationally themed hot dogs. Our favorite: the Chihuahua dog, loaded with fresh guacamole.
Buena Tierra (Map; 2288-0342; cnr Calle Central & Av 2, Escazú Centro; dishes ₡2200-3500;