Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [81]
Soda Río de Janeiro (Map; 8811-5263; cnr Calle 1 & Av 2, Escazú Centro; mains ₡2700; 6am-6pm Mon-Sat) Located southeast of the Iglesia Escazú, this charismatic little soda decked out with bright-red tablecloths is frequently full. Typical Tico fare includes pork chops, chicken or fish accompanied by big jars of spicy, pickled vegetables. There’s a tiny aquarium of angelfish that you can watch while you wait for a seat.
Self-caterers can hit the Más x Menos (Map; 2228-0954; Carretera John F Kennedy, San Rafael; 6:30am-midnight Mon-Sat, 6:30am-10pm Sun) or the Supermercado Saretto (Map; 2228-0247; San Rafael). The best supermarket in the area is the sprawling new Automercado at Atlantis Plaza (Map; 2588-1742; San Rafael; 7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun).
MIDRANGE
Inka Grill (Map; 2289-5117; www.graninka.com; Centro Comercial Los Pacos, on the road to Santa Ana; dishes ₡4000-13,000; noon-4pm & 6-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-11pm Fri & Sat, noon-9:30pm Sun) The San José outpost of this venerable international chain serves all the Peruvian classics, including ceviche (marinated seafood), stuffed potatoes and an exceptionally well-made ají de gallina (walnut-chicken stew). Don’t miss the pisco sours (grape-brandy cocktails). There is also a children’s menu.
Los Anonos BBQ (Map; 2228-0180; mains ₡5500-16,000; noon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat, 11:30am-9pm Sun) On the road between San José and Escazú is this meat-centric place, which has been in continuous operation since the early ’60s. It’s a rustic family spot, with wood tables and historic photos of Costa Rica – and if you’ve got a hankering for a good steak, this would be the place to dip into USDA-approved cuts. Credit cards accepted.
Restaurante Cerutti (Map; 2228-4511/9954; www.ceruttirestaurante.com; Calle Cortés, San Rafael; dishes ₡5585-11,170; noon-2:30pm & 6:30-11pm Wed-Mon; ) This pricey restaurant, south of Carretera JF Kennedy in San Rafael, delivers predictably top-notch Italian specialties, including fresh seafood and house-made pastas. The ravioli stuffed with ricotta and mushrooms is a local favorite, and you can’t go wrong with the long list of delicious risottos. Credit cards accepted.
Tiquicia (off Map; 2289-5839; miradortiquicia.com; mains ₡6500-11,000; 5pm-midnight Tue-Thu, noon-2am Sat, noon-6pm Sun) This long-running hilltop Tico restaurant serves up bounteous platters, in addition to live folk music on weekends. Without a doubt, it’s a tourist trap – an expensive one – but you’re not here to eat, you’re here to admire the extravagant views of the Central Valley. The restaurant is 5km south of Escazú Centro on a paved road. It’s tricky to find; call for directions or check the website for a map.
La Luz (off Map; 2282-4160; www.thealtahotel.com; mains ₡7700-15,500; 6:30am-10pm) Tucked into the bottom floor of the Alta Hotel, this elegant dining spot has lovely valley views and a Costa Rican fusion menu featuring more than half a dozen lobster specials daily. Favorites include dishes such as camarones flamboyán (shrimp flambéed in tequila) and grilled beef tenderloins bathed in a sauce made of local strawberries. Credit cards accepted.
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Drinking
Centro Comercial Trejos Montealagre (Map; Calle Cortés, San Rafael) This nightlife and drinking complex on the northern edge of San Rafael is one of the hottest – and trendiest – drinking and dancing outposts in the capital. The scene-sters usually start rolling in at 9pm and keep going until the wee hours. As with other San José party places, bars come and go quickly, so inquire locally before setting out. One of the few enduring spots is Frankie Go (2289-5937), which regularly screens soccer matches and hosts ladies’ nights.
Taberna Arenas (Map; cnr of Av Central & Calle 3; Escazú Centro; from 4pm) This delightful, old-fashioned Tico bar is an Escazú institution.