Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [84]
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Climate
For this part of the world, the weather is surprisingly mild. Year-round the mercury hovers around 25°C (77°F). The elevated altitude and landlocked location mean that it is far more temperate than the blistering coasts. During rainy season, from June to December, afternoon showers are not uncommon, but the sun usually pokes through after an hour of rain.
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Parks & Reserves
Watch wildlife and explore volcanic landscapes in some of the Central Valley’s magnificent national parks.
Los Ángeles Cloud Forest Adventure Park This away-from-the-crowds reserve offers the chance to whiz through the treetops on a canopy tour or trot through hills on horseback.
Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo See the outline of an ancient forest village nestled into a lush hillside at the country’s biggest and most important pre-Columbian archeological site.
Parque Nacional Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte This little-visited park receives more rainfall than any other part of the country, so it’s full of life – a perfect outpost for dedicated bird-watchers.
Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú (Click here) One of the few lookouts in the country that affords views of both the Caribbean and the Pacific, Irazú also lays claim to being the country’s highest active volcano.
Parque Nacional Volcán Poás (Click here) Easily accessible, this park has a shimmering crater lake and plenty of surrounding cloud forest.
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Dangers & Annoyances
While the area is generally considered to be very safe, there are regular reports of car break-ins. Try to always secure guarded parking and never leave valuables in your car.
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Getting There & Around
While all of the towns in this area are connected by regular buses, renting a car makes sense if you want to explore the many worthwhile hard-to-reach corners. Locals occasionally wave down passing cars. If you do this, beware that there are risks (Click here), and always offer to help with gas costs.
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ALAJUELA & THE NORTHERN VALLEY
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Volcanoes shrouded in mist, undulating coffee fincas (plantations), bustling agricultural centers. The area around the provincial capital of Alajuela, 18km northwest of San José, seems to have it all – including Juan Santamaría international airport, just 3km outside the city. The proximity to the airport is key, for this area makes a highly convenient transit point if you are entering or leaving the country. And for travelers seeking to avoid San José, it offers a good selection of bustling eateries, atmospheric B&Bs and well-equipped city inns.
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ALAJUELA
pop 43,000
Costa Rica’s second city is also home to one of the country’s most famous figures: Juan Santamaría, the humble drummer boy who died putting an end to William Walker’s campaign to turn Central America into slaving territory in the Battle of Rivas in 1856 (for more on Walker, see boxed text). A busy agricultural hub, it is here that farmers bring their products to market – which means that on any given day (except Sunday), the place is teeming.
Alajuela is by no means a tourist ‘destination.’ Much of the architecture is unremarkable, the streets are often jammed and there are only a few offerings in the way of sights. But it’s an inherently Costa Rican city. And, in its more relaxed moments, it can unveil a few charms – a place where Tico families have leisurely Sunday lunches and teenagers steal kisses in the park. It’s also a good base for exploring the countryside to the north, including the Parque Nacional Volcán Poás (Click here).
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Orientation & Information
Central Alajuela