Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [85]
Citibank (2443-6011; cnr Calle 2 & Av 6; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12:30pm Sat) Alajuela is cluttered with banks; this one has a drive-through and two ATMs on the Plus, Cirrus and Maestro networks.
Conexion (2431-2623; Calle 1 btwn Avs 3 & 5; per hr ₡350; 7am-7pm Mon-Sat) Next to Jalapeños Central, this place offers internet access, photocopying and international calling.
Hospital San Rafael (2436-1000) A bells-and-whistles hospital housed in a brand-new three-story complex on the southern edge of town.
Instituto Costarricense de Turismo (ICT; 2442-1820) There’s no tourist office in Alajuela proper, but the ICT has a desk at the international airport.
Libros Chiloé (Av 5 btwn Calles 2 & 4; 8:30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Dusty little shop packed to the rafters with Spanish-language historic and literary tomes, including a large section devoted to Costa Rican history. There is a small selection of English and French titles, too.
Post office (2443-2653; Av 5 btwn Calles Central & 1; 8am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12pm Sat)
Scotiabank (2430-9560; cnr Av Central & Calle 1; 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Has a 24-hour ATM on the Cirrus network.
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Sights
ALAJUELA CITY CENTER
The shady Parque Central is a pleasant place to relax beneath a cluster of mango trees. It is surrounded by several 19th-century buildings, including the cathedral, which suffered severe damage in an earthquake in 1991. The hemispherical cupola is constructed of sheets of red corrugated metal. The interior is spacious and elegant rather than ornate; two presidents are buried here.
Six blocks to the east, a Renaissance-inspired structure, built in 1941, houses the Iglesia La Agonía, a popular local spot for mass (the first one is at 6am). The columned interiors are airy and graceful, with ornate wood altars and, interestingly, a main altar encrusted with a fluorescent crucifix (somehow, it works).
Two blocks south of the Parque Central is the rather bare Parque Juan Santamaría, where there is a statue of the hero (see below) in action, flanked by cannons – an area frequented by canoodling teenagers. Across the way, the Parque de los Niños has slightly more pleasant landscaping, in addition to playground equipment and plenty of chattering toddlers.
Situated in a century-old structure that has served as both a jail and an armory, north of the Parque Central, the Museo Juan Santamaría (2441-4775; www.museojuansantamaria.go.cr; cnr Av 3 & Calle 2; admission free; 10am-5:30pm Tue-Sun) chronicles the life and history of Juan Santamaría, the legendary drummer boy who helped route American filibuster William Walker in 1856 by torching the building that he and his men were hiding out in. A basic exhibit area contains vintage maps, paintings and historical artifacts related to the conflict. They also host rotating arts and crafts exhibitions and there is a small auditorium where performances are occasionally staged.
AROUND ALAJUELA
Three kilometers to the southeast, in Río Segundo de Alajuela, is the important Amigos de las Aves (2441-2658; www.hatchedtoflyfree.org; suggested per person donation US$20; by appointment), a successful green and scarlet macaw breeding program housed on a 3-hectare finca also known as Flor de Mayo. Founded in 1992 by Richard and Margot Frisius, the organization is working to revive endangered macaw populations in collaboration with the Minae, the government ministry that oversees the national park system. They also have volunteer opportunities (from US$15 to US$18 per person per day). See the website for details. Two-hour guided tours of the breeding center and refuge can be arranged by appointment in advance. It’s tricky to find; get directions.
About 6km south of Alajuela are the Ojo de Agua springs (2441-0655; admission US$1.50, children under-6 free; 8am-5pm; ), a picturesque working-class water park that’s packed on weekends with families from San José and Alajuela. Approximately