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20,000L of water gush out from the spring each minute, powering a small waterfall that’s great for shoulder massages, as well as filling various pools (including an Olympic-sized lap pool complete with diving tower) and an artificial boating lake. From here, the water is piped down to the coast at Puntarenas, for which the springs are a major supplier of water. There are also snack stands and game courts. From Alajuela, buses depart every half hour from the main terminal area on the southwest end of town; less frequently on weekdays. From San José, drivers can take the San Antonio de Belén exit off the Interamericana; Ojo de Agua is just past San Antonio.

Other nearby attractions include the Butterfly Farm, the Parque Nacional Volcán Poás (Click here) and Zoo Ave.

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Courses

Improve your salsa moves at Merecumbé (2442-3536; www.merecumbe.net; Av 2 btwn Calles 8 & 10), a small dance academy on the southwest end of town. Their website posts the latest class schedule.

A CLEAN, WELL-LIGHTED PLACE

Book-a-holics rejoice! You’ll find one of the best English-language bookstores in the country right in Alajuela. Goodlight Books (2430-4083; www.goodlightbooks.com; Av 3 btwn Calles 1 & 3; 9am-6pm), managed by longtime expat Larry Coulter, offers a mind-boggling selection of tomes: 9000 well-organized books (both used and new) that cover everything from literature to history to sci-fi. He also keeps a worthwhile stock of difficult-to-find books on Costa Rica and the region, and there is a small array of volumes in Dutch and German. You will also find maps, guidebooks and a tiny cafe serving very tasty iced coffee.

The best part: the name. It was inspired by the Ernest Hemingway short story, A Clean, Well-Lighted Place.

For details about Spanish-language study, see boxed text.

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Festivals & Events

In the town that gave birth to Juan Santamaría, it would be expected that the anniversary of the Battle of Rivas, on April 11, would be particularly well celebrated. This momentous event is commemorated with all manner of civic events, including a parade and lots of firecrackers.

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Sleeping

Since Alajuela is so close to the international airport, most hotels and B&Bs can arrange airport transfers for a small fee (or even for free). If you are driving your own car, note that many places in the city center don’t have their own parking area, but there are many guarded lots around the city. Also, expect street noise to be a fact of life in the center of town.

As in other spots, taxi drivers will try to steer you to places that pay them a commission. Remember: be skeptical, don’t believe everything you hear and if you’re unsure about where you’ve chosen to stay, ask to see a room.

HOSTELS

A few of the hotels listed in the Budget section, right, also offer dorm rooms.

Hotel Trotamundos (2430-5832; www.hoteltrotamundos.com; Av 5 btwn Calles 2 & 4; dm US$12, d US$25-30, all incl breakfast; ) This spot is basic, but the rooms are clean and the service is super-friendly. Three dorms and seven private units with cable TV – one of which has an outdoor balcony facing the street – are nestled into a two-story house that surrounds a tiny interior courtyard. There is a shared kitchen, public phones, free internet and a small communal area. Credit cards accepted.

Hostel Maleku (2430-4304; www.malekuhostel.com; 50m west of Hospital San Rafael; dm US$12, s/d without bathroom US$25/35; ) This sweet little backpackers’ abode located on the south edge of town, 50m west of the Hospital San Rafael, has tight spic-and-span rooms tucked into a vintage home on a quiet street. There are also two private rooms, with shared bathrooms, a communal kitchen, a TV lounge and free internet. It’s a wonderful, serene spot and the staff is very helpful.

BUDGET

Mango Verde Hostel (2441-6330; mirafloresbb@hotmail.com; Av 3 btwn Calles 2 & 4; s/d US$15/25, without bathroom US$10/20) This small hotel has nine bare and basic rooms, though there’s a decent-sized shared kitchen,