Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [89]
TOP END
The following top-end hotels are located on the road that leads north from Alajuela, towards Volcán Poás; all accept credit cards.
Hotel Buena Vista (2442-8595; www.hotelbuenavistacr.com; d standard/deluxe/junior ste incl breakfast US$85/100/120; ) About 5km north of Alajuela, this whitewashed Mediterranean-style hotel is perched on a mountaintop and has panoramic views of the nearby volcanoes. Tidy, carpeted rooms have floral spreads and fresh flowers; the more expensive of which come with private balcony with valley views (worth the price). A small trail leads from the hotel through a coffee plantation and down to the main road. There is also a nice garden for relaxing.
Pura Vida Retreat & Spa (in USA 888-767-7375; www.puravidaspa.com; per person incl 3 meals US$125-185; ) A renowned yoga and alternative-health center that’s a destination in and of itself, this plush, hillside retreat 4km from Alajuela offers ‘tentalows’ in addition to well-appointed indoor suites. Roomy tiled units have comfy beds, private bathrooms, and some have private balcony with views. Most folks come here on package retreats, so inquire ahead to see what will be on offer. Call ahead for directions; it’s tricky to find.
Xandari Resort Hotel & Spa (2443-2020; www.xandari.com; d villa US$230-315; ) Set in a coffee plantation overlooking the Central Valley, about 6km north of Alajuela, this romantic spot (ideal for honeymooners) has postcard-perfect views and modern bungalows painted in tropical colors, each accented with textile spreads and well-designed folk-art motifs. Individually decorated units all have garden-view showers, minifridge and sitting area. The grounds offer more than 3km of trails for exploring and there are three pools (including one shaped like a half moon), a Jacuzzi, a spa, and a restaurant that specializes in organic local foods and vegetarian cooking (see right for details). There is also an excellent gift shop.
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Eating
BUDGET & MIDRANGE
For the cheapest meals, head to the enclosed Mercado Central (Calles 4 & 6 btwn Avs 1 & Central; 7am-6pm Mon-Sat) for produce stands, inexpensive lunch counters and much, much more.
Soda El Puntalito (cnr Calle 4 & Av 3; snacks ₡1000-2000) Do as the locals do and grab a stool under the old blue awning at this cheap, unassuming corner sidewalk stand.
Dolcelato (2441-6672; Plaza Real Alajuela; ice cream from ₡1000; noon-9:30pm Mon-Thu, noon-10:30pm Fri-Sun) A fantastical array of Italian ice creams in flavors of both fruit and chocolate can be found at this contemporary gelateria at the strip mall on the south edge of town. In a nod to local palates, they even have the mysterious flavor known as ‘Churchill’ (see boxed text, opposite).
Panadería Santa Clara (Av 1 btwn Calles 6 & 8; items ₡200-600) Follow your nose to this outstanding bakery, which is stocked with all types of homemade breads as well as eye-popping pastries, cookies and cakes. The macaroons totally rule!
Coffee Dreams Café (2430-3970; cnr Calle 1 & Av 3; dishes ₡900-4200; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) This adorable cafe is a great place to sample the local blend, but it’s worth bringing your appetite along, too, as the tamales here are hot and heavenly.
Café Las Delicias (2440-3681; cnr Av 3 & Calle 1; dishes ₡1300-3100; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) A cute corner spot for cappuccino, iced coffee, chilled drinks, cheesecake and a highly yummy pastelito de piña (pineapple pastry).
Ambrosia (2201-5057; Av 5 btwn Calles Central & 2; mains ₡1350-2200; 10am-9pm Mon-Sat) This pretty, open-air cafe in a yellow building is good for a pick-me-up espresso. The menu features a mix of Italian-influenced options, including sandwiches, pasta and several types of tasty lasagna (including one made with hearts of palm).
Jalepeños Central (2430-4027; Calle 1 btwn Avs 3 & 5; dishes