Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [90]
Ceviche del Rey (2440-0779; www.cevichedelreycr.com; Calle 2, north of Río Alajuela; mains ₡2200-9000; 11am-11pm) It’s worth the trek to the northern outskirts of town for Peruvian food at this favorite family outpost. Expect all manner of Andean classics, including fresh ceviche (seafood marinated in lime juice), the tender stir-fries known as saltados and even harder-to-find regional specialties such as cabrito a la norteña (stewed goat in cilantro). They even have Peruvian beer.
La Mansarda (2441-4390; Calle Central btwn Avs Central & 2, 2nd fl; meals ₡2600-7500; 11am-11pm) An old standby for traditional Costa Rican fare is this casual balcony restaurant overlooking the street. Grilled fish and chicken dishes are the specialty, and can be complemented by a good selection of wines by the glass (from ₡1400). Save room for the flan de coco (coconut flan) or, better yet, a belt of Flor de Caña rum. The best!
Los Olivos (cnr Calle 4 & Av 4; breakfast ₡300, mains ₡3000-5900; 7am-10pm) This bright corner spot facing the Parque de los Niños serves tasty café con leche (coffee with milk), along with a mix of international specialties, from burritos to steak. The best part: if you pick up fresh strawberries from the roadside vendors near the Poás volcano, the kitchen will clean them and whip them up into a delicious natural de fresa (strawberry shake without milk) – with the purchase of a main dish.
Self-caterers can stock up on groceries at the Palí supermarket (cnr Av 2 & Calle 10; 8am-8pm) or Más x Menos (Av 1 btwn Calles 4 & 6; 7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 7am-8pm Sun).
TOP END
Xandari (2443-2020; www.xandari.com; mains ₡4500-10,000; ) If you want to impress a date, then you can’t go wrong at this elegant restaurant with incredible views, housed at the hotel of the same name (opposite). The menu is a mix of organically focused Costa Rican and international meals (with plenty of vegetarian options), from catch of the day seared in olive oil and wasabi to healthy interpretations of local casados (set meals). For dessert, try the chocolate macadamia nut cake.
Como en Casa (2441-7607; Plaza Real Alajuela; mains ₡5100-14,000; 11am-10pm Sun-Wed, 11am-11pm Thu-Sat) In a new strip mall on the south edge of town, this Argentinean grill is a popular weekend lunch spot, serving a comprehensive round-up of grilled meats and a strong selection of pastas (including vegetarian options). There is a good wine list (from ₡6600 a bottle), as well as desert crepes stuffed with local strawberries.
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Entertainment
The perennial Costa Rican soccer champions, Alajuela’s own La Liga, play at the Estadio Morera Soto at the northeast end of town on Sundays during soccer season. If you can’t get seats, stop by Cugini Bar & Restaurant (2440-6893; cnr Av Central & Calle 5; noon-midnight Mon-Sat) and you can catch the game over a brew or two.
There’s no shortage of dive bars, and there’s a good chance that karaoke will be on offer after 10pm. If this is your first night in Costa Rica, we recommend the Guaro Cacique. Bottoms up! (And don’t call us in the morning.)
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Getting There & Away
For details of flights to Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, Click here and Click here. You can take a taxi (from ₡1800) to the airport from the Parque Central.
There is no central terminal; instead, a number of small terminals and bus stops dot the southwestern part of the city. Note that there are two Tuasa terminals (east and west) – right across the street from each other.
Atenas (Calle 10 btwn Avs Central & 2) ₡300; 30 minutes; departs every 30 minutes from 6am to 9pm.
Butterfly Farm (cnr Av 2 & Calle 8) ₡300; 30 minutes; departs at 6:20am, 9am, 11am and 1pm.
Heredia (Tuasa Terminal East; Calle 8 btwn Avs