Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [92]
In the meantime, the most common issue for visitors is the veil of clouds that gather around the mountain at about 10am (even in dry season). Even if the day looks clear, get to the park as early as possible or you won’t see much.
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Information
Some 250,000 people visit the park annually, making Poás the most packed national park in the country; weekends get especially jammed. The best time to go is on a weekday in the dry season. In particular, go early in the morning before the clouds obscure the view. If the summit is cloudy, take a hike to the other craters and return to the cauldron later – winds shift and sometimes the cloud cover is blown away.
Near the entrance, there is a visitors center with a souvenir stand, a small museum and informative videos that play hourly between 9am and 3pm. There is also a coffee shop – but the menu is limited. However, the road up to the park is lined with stands selling fruit, cheese and snacks – as well as countless touristy spots serving typical Tico fare – so you won’t go hungry. Bring your own bottled water, though, as the tap water is undrinkable.
There is no camping or other accommodations inside the park. For lodging and eating in the vicinity, see opposite.
Be advised that overnight temperatures can drop below freezing, and it may be windy and cold during the day. Also, Poás receives almost 4000mm of rainfall each year. Dress accordingly.
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Hiking
From the visitors center, there is a paved wheelchair-accessible path that leads to a crater lookout. Because of the toxic sulfuric-acid fumes that are emitted from the cauldron, visitors are prohibited from descending into the crater.
From the lookout, two trails branch out – to the right is Sendero Botos, to the left Sendero Escalonia. Sendero Botos is a short, 30-minute round-trip hike that takes you through dwarf cloud forest, which is the product of acidic air and freezing temperatures. Here you can wander about looking at bromeliads, lichens and mosses clinging to the curiously shaped and twisted trees growing in the volcanic soil. Birds abound, especially the magnificent fiery-throated hummingbird, a high-altitude specialty of Costa Rica. The trail ends at Laguna Botos, a peculiar cold-water lake that has filled in one of the extinct craters.
Sendero Escalonia is a slightly longer trail through taller forest, which gets significantly less traffic than the other parts of the park. While hiking on the trail, look for other highland specialties, including the sooty robin, black guans, screech owls and even the odd quetzal (especially from February to April). Although mammals are infrequently sighted in the park, coyotes and the endemic montane squirrel are present.
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Tours
Numerous companies offer daily tours to the volcano, but these can be an overpriced affair. Depending on the number of additional activities they include, they can cost US$40 to US$100, and the kicker is that you’ll usually arrive at the volcano at around 10am – right when the clouds start rolling in. Also, readers complain that they’re often rushed off the crater, though there always seems to be time for stopping at a souvenir shop on the way back. As always, shop around and ask questions.
It’s just as easy to visit the volcano using public transportation from San José or Alajuela. And, if you have two or more people in your group, the best deal is to rent a car or hire a private taxi for the day and visit the volcano at your leisure.
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Sleeping & Eating
ON THE ROAD TO POÁS
The area around the Parque Nacional Volcán Poás is largely agricultural (expect to see lots of dairy and fruit farming), but there are still a number of places to sleep, eat and visit. This is scenic, rural countryside – and makes for a lovely afternoon drive or overnight stay.
Lo Que Tu Quieres Lodge (2482-2092; d US$20, additional person US$10; ) About 5km before the park entrance, this creaky