Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [93]
Lagunillas Lodge (2448-5837, 8389-5842; d US$30, d cabinas US$40; ) This lodge and farm is the closest accommodation to the volcano, and while it’s basic, the family that operates it is charming and the rustic log cabins offer stellar views. Rooms and stand-alone cabins, which can accommodate up to six people, have hot-water showers and heaters, and all are surrounded by hiking trails. There’s also a fish pond where you can catch your dinner, and a restaurant (mains from ₡2500) that will cook it up for you. They can also arrange horseback rides. To get here, take the signed turnoff about 2km before the park entrance and head west, about 1km down a steep dirt road; 4WD absolutely, positively required. Call ahead.
In season, expect to see vendors along the road to the volcano selling artisanal foods and fresh-picked fruit. Pick up a bag of strawberries take it with you back to Alajuela. The folks at Los Olivos will whip it into a shake with the purchase of a main dish.
EAST OF POÁS
About 10km before the entrance to the national park, a winding, paved road heads east through Poasito, before arriving in the village of Vara Blanca, where it turns north and leads to the famed La Paz Waterfall Gardens. This is scenic, uncluttered countryside – the ideal place for a pleasant drive or to spend the night. (This area was greatly affected by the 2009 earthquake. See boxed text for more info.)
Places are listed as you head east from Poasito to La Paz.
Villa Calas (2482-2222; www.villacalas.com; d US$40-50, q US$90; ) Just 4km east of Poasito, you’ll find this small, rustic outpost, with 10 A-frame cabins in various configurations. All come with chimney; more expensive ones are equipped with kitchenette, while the largest have full kitchen. A pleasant restaurant (mains ₡3100 to ₡5900) serves typical Costa Rican fare – including river trout prepared myriad ways (in season). Parents will appreciate the toddler play set. Credit cards accepted.
Poás Volcano Lodge (2482-2194; www.poasvolcanolodge.com; d standard/junior ste US$95/110, additional adult/child under 12yr US$25/15, all incl breakfast; ) Roughly another 8km east along the road, you’ll find this high-altitude dairy farm that offers attractive lodging in an idyllic rural setting. Six comfortable, well-appointed rooms in a converted stone horse-stable (some units are still equipped with the old hitching rings) have a rustic flair. In addition, the grounds have more than 3km of hiking trails that offer views of the volcano – and all the way to Nicaragua – on clear days. A games room, destroyed by the earthquake, should be fully rebuilt by late 2010.
Colbert Restaurant (2482-2776; www.colbert.co.cr; mains ₡2600-8500; noon-9pm Fri-Wed) Two kilometers east of the Poás Volcano Lodge, you’ll find this charming French restaurant with nice views and a chef that looks like he’s straight out of Central Casting: Joël Suire is not only French, he is bequeathed with an ample moustache and wears a toque. Expect a menu loaded with traditional French items such as onion soup, house-made paté and beef tenderloin grilled with green peppercorns. There is a good wine list (bottles from ₡7800), strong on vintages from South America and France. Don’t miss the fresh bread or to-die-for lace cookies.
THE 2009 VARA BLANCA EARTHQUAKE
In January 2009, the area around Vara Blanca, to the east of the Volcán Poás, was rocked by a massive 6.2 quake that split roads, triggered deadly avalanches and leveled the village of Cinchona. Out of 170 homes in the town, 60 were wrecked outright and another 60 were declared uninhabitable the next day. Almost three dozen people were killed, and several went missing;