Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [94]
The quake also claimed a 3km stretch of road that connected Vara Blanca in the Central Valley to San Miguel on the northern slope. Engineers have concluded that the area remains too unstable for the road to be rebuilt – which means that a new road, along a different route, will be constructed. At the earliest, it will be finished in late 2010. (If you’re looking to drive it, inquire locally before setting out.) Furthermore, the families that once inhabited Cinchona will be relocated. At press time, the government had unveiled a plan to create a new development in the vicinity of Cariblanco, to the north.
Travelers, in the meantime, can still visit all the many lovely points from Poás to just beyond the La Paz Waterfall Gardens – a gesture of support that many area businesses would no doubt welcome in the wake of this tragedy.
La Paz Waterfall Gardens (2482-2720, 2482-2100; www.waterfallgardens.com; adult/child under 12yr US$35/20; 8am-5pm; ) This garden and hotel complex is host to 3.5km of hiking trails and five scenic waterfalls, the largest one of which – La Catarata de la Paz (Peace Waterfall) – is probably one of the most photographed sights in Costa Rica. (The earthquake, sadly, destroyed 90% of the garden’s trails, but these should all be cleared and ready to go at some point in late 2010.) Visitors can also tour a butterfly conservatory, an aviary, an orchid display, a serpentarium and a historic Tico farmhouse that dates back to 1900. It’s an ideal spot for active seniors and small children (there are even special children’s activities), since many of the trails are smooth and well-maintained.
If you want to stay onsite, book a room at the adjacent Peace Lodge (2482-2100; www.waterfallgardens.com; d standard/deluxe/villa US$275/345/415, additional adult/child US$40/20, all incl breakfast; ), which has 17 over-the-top units, all with gorgeous valley views. These all have private deck, fireplace, canopy bed, staggeringly large bathroom and, in the event that you are suffering from acute Jacuzzi withdrawal, each unit comes stocked with two hot tubs (one inside and one out). An extravagant loft-style villa sleeps up to six. There’s also a heated outdoor infinity-edge swimming pool, complete with heated waterfall. Credit cards accepted.
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Getting There & Away
You can take a taxi to the park for around ₡50,000 from San José or ₡22,000 from Alajuela. If you’re driving, the road from Alajuela to the volcano is well signed. Most visitors using public buses come from San José. Get to the terminal early.
From San José (₡3400, five hours), Tuasa buses depart 8:30am daily from Av 2 between Calles 12 and 14, stopping in Alajuela at about 9:15am and returning at 2:30pm. Most of these buses also make a pit stop at one of the roadside restaurants along the way.
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WEST TO ATENAS
From Alajuela, a narrow, paved highway leads 25km west to the lovely mountain town of Atenas. It’s a nice day trip, with perfect climate and a charming rural atmosphere.
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La Garita
In an area that attracts scientists who do research on maize, it is not surprising that this town – spread out along the road that connects Alajuela to Atenas – is lined with restaurants whose specialty is corn: corn soup, cornbread, tamales and chorreadas (savory corn pancakes) to be exact. It is located 11km west of Alajuela and worth the pilgrimage if you are looking for good country eats.
All places are listed as you travel west, from Alajuela to Atenas.
In a quiet spot, surrounded by forest, you’ll find Martino Resort & Spa (2433-8382; www.hotelmartino.com; d standard/deluxe incl breakfast US$135/180; ), a Las Vegas-meets-Central America extravaganza of classical mythology and polished hardwood everything. Forty-eight rooms with Greek porticos are spacious and well appointed and there’s a large swimming pool guarded by a knockoff of Michelangelo’s David. There is also a gym, sauna and spa – as well as an Italian restaurant, La Focaccia (mains