Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [95]
About 10km west of Alajuela, you’ll find Zoo Ave (2433-8989/9966; adult/child US$15/13; 8:30am-5pm; ), a well-designed animal park boasting more than 15 species of reptile and 115 species of birds – all on colorful, squawking display in a relaxing 14-hectare park. In addition, you’ll find all four species of Costa Rican monkey, as well as many other critters. Though technically a zoo, it is also an important breeding center that aims to reintroduce native species into the wild. There is also a cafe. This is an excellent place for families.
Continue west and the road slides right over the Interamericana. Just north of the intersection, you’ll find La Casona del Maíz (mains ₡2400-6400; 7am-9pm; ), a jam-packed family spot that offers unparalleled views of a verdant valley and…a working pit mine (seriously). But the food is spectacular – a lengthy menu of Tico country cooking – heavy on the grilled meats and corn dishes, though there are veggie casados as well. The chorreadas (savory corn pancakes) are excellent, but don’t leave without sampling the tasty corn soup, studded with sweet, fresh kernels, or the falling-off-the-bone pork ribs (costillas de cerdo). Divine.
South of the highway, you’ll find La Fiesta del Maíz (2487-7057; mains ₡2400-3100; 10am-8pm Wed-Mon), a humble roadside place that sells whole roasted chickens, chorreadas, tamales and cornbread by the bag.
A few more kilometers to the west, is La Casa del Viñedo (2487-6086; mains ₡3200-8500; noon-close), a family restaurant on the edge of La Garita that grills up ribs and steaks. It also sells a selection of pastas, empanadas and locally crafted wines. Our advice: avoid the wine.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Buses (₡400, 30 minutes) run between Alajuela and La Garita, via Zoo Ave, every half hour.
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Atenas
This small village, on the historic camino de carretas (oxcart trail) that once carried coffee beans as far as Puntarenas, is best known as having the most pleasant climate in the world, at least according to a 1994 issue of National Geographic. It’s not too heavy on sights, though springtime is always in the air here.
About 1km before the center of town, you’ll see the Monumento al Boyero (Monument to the Oxcart Driver) on the north side of the road – a grey metallic sculpture that looks like an oxcart on a rocket launchpad.
In town, you can dine on the main plaza at Haedel’s (2446-0810; mains ₡3800-4900; 8am-2pm & 5-8pm Wed-Sun), a rustic German spot that serves all manner of sausage, pork and sauerkraut dishes. You can also get healthy yogurt and muesli breakfasts for only ₡1900.
On the eastern end of town, you’ll find the typical Restaurant La Trocha del Boyero (2446-0533; casados ₡2500, mains ₡3100-5500; 11am-9pm; ). Tico families pour into the pleasant outdoor deck on weekends for a variety of casados on offer, fresh trout (in season) and heaping bowls of chifrijo (rice and beans with fried pork, corn chips and fresh tomato salsa). It is located on the main road to Alajuela, 300m east of the gas station, and 100m to the south. Look for a sign at the turnoff.
There is no place to stay in the village, but travel north for 5km, on the road to Grecia, and you’ll find El Cafetal Inn B&B (2446-5785; www.cafetal.com; d incl breakfast US$75-120; ), a simple country inn set in the midst of a hillside coffee plantation. Fourteen guest rooms have clay-colored walls and eclectic tropical decor (think floral murals), as well as private balconies with rocking chairs. There is a swimming pool and two easy trails lead to waterfalls. A small restaurant, Rincón Llanero (4-9pm), serves basic dishes, as well as the plantation’s signature brand of coffee, La Negrita. Credit cards are accepted.
Half-hourly buses connect the village of Atenas to Alajuela and San José from 6am to 9pm. The area is quite spread out, however, and best navigated by car.
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