Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [96]
NORTHWEST TO SARCHÍ
To the northwest of Alajuela, the carefully cultivated hills are home to the picturesque agricultural towns of Grecia (22km), Sarchí (29km), Naranjo (35km) and Zarcero (52km) – among others – many of which are popular weekend getaways for josefinos (inhabitants of San José) in search of fresh mountain air. The region boasts excellent coffee and dairy products and an interesting collection of eccentric attractions, including the country’s most curious topiary bushes.
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Rosario Area
From the Interamericana, near the road to Grecia, you’ll see the well-signed turnoff for the Vista del Valle Plantation Inn (2450-0800; www.vistadelvalle.com; d incl breakfast US$100-175; ), adjoining the Zona Protectora Río Grande. Here you’ll find a total of 17 individually designed units overlooking a forested gorge. Newer ones are better, but all come stocked with private deck, books and handcrafted soap. In addition, private trails lead to a 90m-high waterfall in the adjoining reserve and the staff can arrange horseback tours and massages. There is also a pool and Jacuzzi. The open-air restaurant (mains ₡5000 to ₡8800) serves Costa Rican fusion cuisine – including vegetarian specials that feature homegrown produce. Do not miss the moist tres leches cake or the homemade jams. Credit cards accepted.
Two kilometers west of the turnoff to Grecia, you’ll find the offices of Tropical Bungee (2248-2212, 8398-8134; www.bungee.co.cr; 1st/2nd jump US$65/30), where you can arrange to hurl yourself off the 80m-high bridge over the Río Colorado. It’s easiest to make a reservation online.
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Grecia
pop 12,000
The village of Grecia – once named the ‘Cleanest Little Town in Latin America’ – is centered on a pleasant Parque Central (central plaza) that is anchored by one of the most charming churches in Costa Rica.
On the south side of the cathedral, you’ll find a branch of the Banco de Costa Rica (9am-4pm), which has a 24-hour ATM operating on various international systems. For those who want to refine their moves, there’s a branch of the dance academy Merecumbé (2495-1313; www.merecumbe.net), in a gray building on the main road into town.
SIGHTS
At the heart of town you’ll find the incredibly quaint Catedral de la Mercedes, a red metal structure that was prefabricated in Belgium and shipped to Costa Rica in 1897 – and resembles a gingerbread church. It has an airy nave, bright Spanish tile floors and a Gothic-style altar covered in marble.
The small Centro de la Cultura (2444-6767), north of the church, maintains a small exhibit of Spanish-colonial artifacts and articles about the city’s status as the cleanest in America.
SPANISH SCHOOLS IN THE CENTRAL VALLEY
Unless otherwise noted, prices are given for five four-hour days of instruction, with/without a week’s homestay. Prices include two meals a day.
Adventure Education Center (Map;2556-4609, 2556-4614; www.adventurespanishschool.com; US$575/440) Combine Spanish classes and white-water rafting at this Turrialba school that also offers medical Spanish.
Centro Panamericano de Idiomas (2265-6306; www.cpi-edu.com; US$480/330) Based in San Joaquín de las Flores, just outside of Heredia, this popular school also has a teen program.
Finca la Flor de Paraíso (2534-8003; www.la-flor.org; with homestay US$450) This organic farm (see boxed text), outside of Cartago, offers small group classes.
Intensa (2442-3843, in USA 866-277-1352; www.intensa.com; US$279/404) Schools in Alajuela and Heredia teach everything from medical to business Spanish.
Intercultura (Map; 2260-8480, in USA 800-552-2051; www.interculturacostarica.com; US$285/425) School in Heredia also arranges volunteer opportunities and offers cooking and dance classes.
Montaña Linda (2533-3640; www.montanalinda.com; with homestay US$230) All classes are one-on-one at this Orosi hostel and inn (Click here).
Grecia’s premiere attraction, World of Snakes (2494-3700; adult/child US$11/6; 8am-4pm), lies 1.5km south of the bus station.