Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [97]
A couple of kilometers to the south, a bend in the road leads to an 18th-century rock bridge, which connects the hamlets of Puente de Piedra and Rincón de Salas. Locals say that the only other rock bridge like this is in China, and some tales have it that it was built by the devil. In 1994 it was declared a National Site of Historic Interest. It’s small, so don’t expect the eighth wonder of the world. Ask for directions, as it’s hard to find.
About 5km south of Grecia, toward Santa Gertrudis, are Las Cataratas de Los Chorros (admission US$5; 8am-5pm), two gorgeous waterfalls and a swimming hole surrounded by picnic tables. It’s a popular spot for weekending couples.
SLEEPING & EATING
B&B Grecia (2494-2573; www.bandbgrecia.com; s US$35-45, d US$45-55, additional person US$10, all incl breakfast; ) This tiny three-room B&B located 150m south of the Parque Central has tidy, clean rooms in various sizes, including one that comes with a Jacuzzi tub. The owner can help arrange area tours.
Healthy Day Country Inn Resort (2444-5903; s/d without bathroom US$40/48; ) This ramshackle resort has seen better days, but it’s decent (and ideal if you’re on a health kick). Rooms share bathrooms – but all have access to the onsite tennis court, gym and Jacuzzi. In addition, you can order massages and macrobiotic meals. It’s more than 1km north of the cathedral on the road to Grecia.
Hotel Aeromundo (2494-0094; www.hotelaeromundo.com; s US$40, d US$60-70, apt US$75-100, all incl breakfast; ) About 100m east of the cathedral, this clean, tidy spot administered by the efficient Doris has 14 snug, carpeted rooms with cable TV surrounding an interior courtyard draped in plants. Three apartments are stocked with full kitchens. Credit cards accepted.
For rich coffee drinks and snacks – as well as free wi-fi – hit Café Delicias (2494-2093; dishes ₡700-1900; 8am-7pm; ), an enjoyable spot near the southwest corner of the park.
A good dinner place is the popular Don Efraín (2494-0923; dishes ₡3000-8000; 11am-11pm Tue-Sun), which serves grilled meats and seafood in an open-air patio. It is located just north of the Healthy Day Country Inn.
Self-caterers will find the Supermercado Palí (2444-6696) to the southeast of the church. A farmers’ market takes place north of town on Saturday mornings.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The bus terminal is 300m west of the church.
San José ₡800; one hour; departs every 15 minutes from 5:30am to 8:30pm, every 30 minutes on weekends.
Sarchí, connecting to Naranjo ₡200; 30 minutes; departs every 25 minutes from 5am to 8:30pm.
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Sarchí
pop 5500
Welcome to Costa Rica’s most famous crafts center, where artisans produce the ornately painted oxcarts and leather-and-wood furnishings for which the Central Valley is known. (You’ll know you’ve arrived because just about everything is covered in the signature geometric designs – even city hall.) Yes, it’s a tourist trap – organized excursions from San José bring in travelers by the busload – but it’s a pretty one. The town is stretched out along a road that weaves through hilly countryside.
Most people come in for an afternoon of shopping and call it a day. But there are more than 200 artisanal workshops in the area. If you have time on your hands, it is possible to meet different artisans and custom-order a creation.
For the lowdown on the goods, see boxed text.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
Sarchí is divided by the Río Trojas into Sarchí Norte and Sarchí Sur, and is rather spread out, straggling for several kilometers along the main road from Grecia to Naranjo. In fact, it’s easiest to explore by private car.
In Sarchí Norte, you’ll find the heart of the village, including a twin-towered church, some restaurants and