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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [98]

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hotels, as well as a public plaza that contains what is purported to be the world’s largest oxcart (the photo-ops are priceless).

Also on the north end of town is the Jardín Botánico Else Kientzler (2454-2070; www.elsekientzlergarden.com; adult/child US$15/10; 8am-4pm; ). This recommended botanical garden has 2km of trails, ideal for a refreshing stroll among more than 2000 types of clearly labeled plants, including succulents, fruit trees, heliconias and orchids. There is a picnic area and a small playground for children. Find it 800m north of the stadium.

On the soccer field, about 100m south of the church, there is a branch of the Banco Nacional (2454-4262; 8:30am-3pm Mon-Fri) for changing money.

SLEEPING & EATING

Cabinas Mandy (8814-1555; d US$13; ) About 300m north of the fire station, in Sarchí Norte, is this small, basic budget option with simple well-kept rooms that have cable TV and private hot shower.

Hotel Daniel Zamora (2454-4596; d US$35; ) On a quiet street north of the soccer field, the Zamora is a slightly more upmarket choice. Seven clean tile-floor rooms have cable TV, private hot shower and even a small sitting area. Credit cards accepted.

Villa Sarchí Lodge (2454-5000; hotelvillasarchi@ice.co.cr; d US$35; ) Run by the same owners as Hotel Daniel Zamora, here you’ll find eight rooms set into a nice garden with a swimming pool. It is located 800m west of town, on the road to Naranjo. Credit cards accepted.

Las Carretas (2454-1636; mains ₡3800-6200; 11am-9pm) One of the most popular spots for a lunch break is the restaurant adjacent to the Fábrica de Carretas Joaquín Chavarrí. Expect a mix of Tico classics along with international items such as burgers and burritos.

A great farmers’ market is held on Fridays behind Taller Lalo Alfaro, where you can grab homemade snacks, queso palmito (a local cheese) and lots of produce.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

If you’re driving from San José, from the Interamericana, take the signed exit to Grecia and from there, follow the road north to Sarchí. If you’re coming from the west, take the turnoff north to Naranjo, then head east to Sarchí.

Buses arrive and depart from Sarchí Norte.

Alajuela ₡300; 30 minutes; departs every 30 minutes from 6am to 11pm.

Grecia ₡300; 20 minutes; departs every 25 minutes from 5am-8:30pm.

San José ₡1000; 1½ hours; departs every 30 minutes between 5am and 10pm.


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ZARCERO

pop 3200

A SHOPPERS GUIDE TO SARCHÍ

Most travelers come to Sarchí for one thing and one thing only: carretas, the elaborate, colorfully painted oxcarts that are the unofficial souvenir of Costa Rica – and official symbol of the Costa Rican worker. In Sarchí, these come ready for the road (oxen sold separately) or in scaled-down versions (ready to display in gardens or used as minibars). But the area produces plenty of other curios as well: leather-and-wood furniture (including those incredible rocking chairs that collapse, Ikea-style for shipping), wood tableware and an infinite array of trinkets emblazoned with the colorful mandala-design popularized by carretas.

Workshops are usually open from 8am to 4pm daily, and they accept credit cards and US dollars. For your shipping ease, find a UPS office (2454-5555) in Sarchí Sur. Below is a list of some of the most respected and popular spots, though with more than 200 places to choose from, it pays to shop around. Prices and quality vary; choose carefully.

Coopearsa (2454-4196/4050; www.coopearsa.com) In Sarchí Norte, 200m west of the soccer field, is this kitsch-filled paradise of carretas, woodwork and painted feathers.

Fábrica de Carretas Joaquín Chaverri (2454-4411) The oldest and best-known factory in Sarchí Sur. In the back, the small studio is a good place for watching artisans emblazon those incredible patterns on the oxcarts by hand.

Los Rodríguez (2454-4097); El Arte Sarchiseño (2454-1686); Muebles El Artesano (2454-4422) All are located along the main road and specialize in rocking chairs and other furniture.

Taller Lolo Alfaro (2454-4131) One block north of the

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