Cuba - Lonely Planet [180]
The Versalles quarter (Map), north of the Río Yumurí, was where the province’s freed slaves first settled in the 19th century, and by the 1890s the area had become the font of an exciting new musical genre called rumba. From the Plaza de la Vigía you enter the barrio (neighborhood) by taking Calle 272 across the graceful Puente de la Concordia (Map). The neoclassical Iglesia de San Pedro Apóstol (Map; cnr Calles 57 & 270) is another Matanzas jewel in need of a makeover. Four blocks east, on the corner of Calles 63 and 260, stands the sinister-looking Cuartel Goicuría (Map), a former barracks of Batista’s army that was assaulted on April 29, 1956 by a group of rebels led by Reinold T García. Today it’s a school.
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ASK A LOCAL
The city of Matanzas has some of the best rumba on the island. Great alfresco performances take place at 4pm on the third Friday of every month outside the Museo Histórico Provincial in Plaza de la Vigía. The people to look out for are Afrocuba de Matanzas, a top Cuban folklórico group.
Lydia, Matanzas
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Northeast of Versalles lies the formidable Castillo de San Severino (Map; 28-32-59; Av del Muelle; admission CUC$2; 9am-5pm), built by the Spanish in 1735 as part of Cuba’s defensive ring. Slaves were offloaded here in the 18th century and, later, Cuban patriots were imprisoned within the walls – and sometimes executed. San Severino remained a prison until the 1970s and in more recent times became the Museo de la Ruta de los Esclavos (admission CUC$2; 9am-5pm), a rather scant slavery museum. More interesting is the castle itself with its well-preserved central square and great views of Matanzas Bay. A taxi from the city center will costs CUC$2.
For an excellent view of Matanzas and the picturesque Valle del Yumurí, climb north up Calle 306 to the recently renovated Iglesia de Monserrate (Map). Dating from 1875, this lofty bastion perched high above the city was built by colonists from Catalonia in Spain as a symbol of their power in the region. A new ranchón-style restaurant Click here has recently improved the ambience.
Baseball fans can make the pilgrimage to Palmar del Junco (Map) in the south of the city, the site of Cuba’s first baseball field (1904) and a source of much civic pride.
OUTSIDE TOWN
Cuevas de Bellamar
The Cuevas de Bellamar (Map; 25-35-38; admission CUC$5, camera CUC$5; 9am-6pm), 5km southeast of Matanzas, are 300,000 years old and are promoted locally as the oldest tourist attraction in Cuba. The 2500m-long caves were discovered in 1861 by a Chinese workman in the employ of Don Manual Santos Parga. There’s an underground stream inside; two restaurants, a pool and playground outside. One-hour visits into the cave leave every hour seven times a day starting at 9:30am. To get there, take bus 16, 17 or 20 east toward Canímar and ask the driver to let you out near Calle 226. From there it’s a 30-minute walk uphill to the caves.
Río Canímar & Around
Boat trips on the Río Canímar, 8km east of Matanzas, are a truly magical experience. Though little evident from the Vía Blanca bridge, the scenery here is jaw-dropping. Gnarly mangroves dip their jungle-like branches into the ebbing water and a warm haze caresses the regal palm trees as your boat slides silently 12km upstream. Cubamar in Varadero offers this wonderful excursion with lunch, horseback riding, fishing and snorkeling for CUC$25, or you can chance your arm by showing up at the landing just below the bridge. Rowboats are for rent (CUC$2 per hour) at the colorful Bar Cubamar (Map; 26-15-16) any time.
From the same turn-off, a road runs 1km down the western (ocean) side of the