Cuba - Lonely Planet [181]
Playa Coral
With no reefs accessible from the coast in Varadero, your closest bet for a bit of shore snorkeling is the aptly named Playa Coral (Map) on the old coastal road (and about 3km off the Vía Blanca) halfway between Matanzas and Varadero. Although you can snorkel solo from the beach itself, it’s far better (and safer) to enter via the Laguna de Maya (Map; 8am-5pm) Flora and Fauna Reserve 400m to the east where professional Ecotur guides can rent you snorkeling gear and guide you out to the reef for a bargain CUC$5. There are a reported 300 species of fish here and visibility is a decent 15m to 20m. The Laguna de Maya also incorporates a snack bar, a ranchón-style restaurant overlooking a small lake with boat rental and opportunities for horseback riding. A package including all the activities is offered for CUC$25. You can hike 2.5km to the Cueva Saturno from here.
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ASK A LOCAL
Playa Coral offers a quality of snorkeling you won’t find in Varadero. The best entry point is at the Laguna de Maya Reserve on the right on the old coast road as you arrive from Varadero. The guides there are excellent and you’ll avoid the hustlers who tend to congregate at the beach a little further on.
Eduardo, Varadero
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Cueva Saturno
One kilometer south of the Vía Blanca, near the airport turn-off, is the Cueva Saturno (Map; 25-32-72; admission incl snorkel gear CUC$5; 8am-6pm). It’s promoted as a snorkeling spot and Varadero companies include it on many tours, but don’t believe the hype: it’s really just a ho-hum cave with limited access, unless you’re an experienced cave diver with all the relevant equipment. Beware the odd hustler or three and the screaming crowds clamoring to get into the water. There’s a snack bar here that sells good coffee.
Festivals & Events
During the 10 days following October 10, Matanzas rediscovers its rumba roots with talented local musicians at the Festival del Bailador Rumbero in the Teatro Sauto.
Sleeping
IN TOWN
While beach-embellished Varadero, 32km to the east, has over 50 hotels, Matanzas boasts a total of zero. If you haven’t yet sampled the delights of a Cuban casa particular, this could be the place.
Hostal Alma (Map; 24-78-10; Calle 83 No 29008 btwn Calles 290 & 292; r CUC$20-25; ) Two rooms in a mid-19th-century colonial house both with baths, a roof terrace, sun loungers and a pleasant central courtyard. It’s a magnificent place tucked away behind Parque Libertad and with oodles of alma (soul).
‘Hostal Azul’ Joel Báez & Aylín Hernández (Map; 24-78-10; joelmatan@gmail.com; Calle 83 No 29012 btwn Calles 290 & 292; r CUC$20-25; ) Next door to the ‘Alma’ and of the same vintage, the ‘Azul’ is the type of fine colonial house that once made Matanzas a cultural tour de force. The hosts are attentive, the rooms huge and the food delicioso (delicious).
Paraíso Díaz-Duque (Map; 24-33-97; Calle 79 No 28205 2nd fl btwn Calles 282 & 288; r CUC$25; ) This excellent house boasts two bedrooms with baths and congenial hosts in the shape of Anita and Luís Alberto, who are full of the exuberant Matanzas spirit. Delicious food appears as if by magic (where do they buy it?) and you’ll get the full lowdown on the local attractions.
OUTSIDE TOWN
Hotel Canimao (Islazul; Map; 26-10-14; s/d CUC$28/38; ) Perched above the Río Canímar 8km east of Matanzas, the Canimao has 120 comfortable rooms with little balconies. It’s handy for Río Canímar excursions, the Cuevas de Bellamar, or the Matanzas Tropicana (literally outside the door), but otherwise you’re isolated from the rest of the north coast’s multifarious