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Eating

IN TOWN

While Matanzas has no real paladares, the casas particulares can usually rustle up something suitably delicious.

Café Libertad (Map; cnr Calles 290 & 83) If you’re going Cuban in Matanzas, this cafe on the main square is a fairly painless introduction, though the peso hamburguesas (hamburgers) could do with a little bit of extra garnish.

Café Atenas (Map; 25-34-93; Calle 83 No 8301; 10am-11pm) Atenas is used to receiving the odd stray tourist on a moped-trip from Varadero and can rustle up a rather delicious bruschetta at short notice. Settle down in the clean, if bland, interior with the local students, taxi drivers and hotel workers on a day off, and contemplate the everyday occurrences of Plaza Vigía outside. Dessert is available next door in an adjoining Cremería (open from 9am to 9pm).

Restaurante Monserrate (Map; Calle 312 al final; 10am-10pm) Included in the rejuvenation and restoration of the Ermita de Monserrate viewpoint is this ranchón-style restaurant designed to lure tourists to the city’s best overlook. In the culinary desert of Matanzas it goes straight in at number one.

Restaurante Teni (Map; Calles 129 & 224; 10am-11:30pm) A large thatched roof affair alongside the beach in Reparto Playa on the road to Varadero, this pleasant place with keen service offers a substantial set comida criolla (Creole food) meal, with rice, root vegetables, salad and meat, for just CUC$5.

The best cheap peso take-out windows are on Calle 272 in Versalles, just across the bridge from Matanzas. The rather lackluster Coppelia (Map; cnr Calles 272 & 127; 10am-10pm) is situated near the bus station.

Groceries

For all your self-catering needs hit Cadena Cubana del Pan (Map; Calle 83 btwn Calles 278 & 280; 24hr) for bread, Supermercado La Reina (Map; Calle 85 No 29006 btwn Calles 290 & 292; 8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Sat, 8:30am-12:30pm Sun) for groceries and Mercado La Plaza (Map; cnr Calles 97 & 298) near the Puente Sánchez Figueras (1916) for produce and peso stalls.

OUTSIDE TOWN

El Ranchón Bellamar (Map; noon-8:30pm) If you’re visiting the caves, you’d do well to grab a comida criolla lunch at this ranchón-style restaurant before heading back into town. Good pork or chicken meals with the trimmings go for between CUC$7 and CUC$8.

El Marino (Map; 26-14-83; noon-9pm) On the main Varadero road next to the turn-off for the Hotel Canimao, El Marino specializes in seafood, including lobster and shrimp, but has delusions of grandeur. Don’t be fooled by the fancy decor.

Drinking

Ruinas de Matasiete (Map; 25-33-87; cnr Vía Blanca & Calle 101; 24hr) Want to find the town’s best drinking hole? Then ask a local. Even better, ask five. Chances are they’ll all reply Ruinas de Matasiete, an engaging convertible bar housed in the ruins of a 19th-century warehouse, next to the bay. Drinks and grilled meats are served on an open-air terrace, but a better reason to come is to hear live music (from 9pm Friday, Saturday and Sunday). There’s a minimum cover charge of CUC$3.

Entertainment

Teatro Sauto (Map; 24-27-21) Across Plaza de la Vigía Teatro Sauto is a national landmark and one of Cuba’s premier theaters. Performances have been held here since 1863 and you might catch the Ballet Nacional de Cuba or the Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba. Performances are at 8:30pm with Sunday matinees at 3pm (Click here).

Teatro Velazco (Map; cnr Calles 79 & 288) On Parque Libertad, Teatro Velazco is Matanzas’ main movie house.

Casa de la Cultura Municipal Bonifacio Bryne (Map; 29-27-09; Calle 272 No 11916 btwn Calles 119 & 121) This is a font of all things cultural and always good for a musical romp.

Las Palmas (Map; 25-32-52; cnr Calles 254 & 127; admission CUC$1; noon-midnight Mon-Wed, noon-2am Fri-Sun) A good starlit night out for a fraction of the price of the Tropicana shindig can be had at this ARTex place.

El Pescadito (Map; Calle 272 btwn Calles 115 & 117) The ‘Little Fish’ is similar to Las Palmas but more