Cuba - Lonely Planet [192]
Meliá Paradisus Varadero (Gaviota; Map; 66-87-00; Punta Rincón Francés; s/d CUC$225/360; ) The eastern tip of the peninsula at Punta Hicacos is five-star territory and this Meliá wins the Oscar for Varadero’s most expensive hotel (no mean feat). It has shapely pillars and shaded courtyards blending subtlety into a choice stretch of paradisiacal beach.
Eating
You can eat well for under CUC$10 in Varadero in a variety of state restaurants (paladares are banned). As 95% of the hotels on the eastern end of the peninsula are all-inclusive, you’ll find the bulk of the independent eating joints west of Calle 64. The prices are fairly generic so the following reviews are listed roughly west to east.
RESTAURANTS
Castel Nuovo (Map; 66-78-45; cnr Av 1 & Calle 11; noon-11pm) At the gateway to the peninsula stands one of the town’s best pizza and pasta restaurants, a cheap, no-nonsense place where atmosphere is lively and the food comes fast. Skip the chicken, beef and fish dishes and go with the Italian fare.
Mi Casita (Map; Camino del Mar btwn Calles 11 & 12) Perched over a lovely strip of beach, this cozy restaurant looks and feels more like a paladar than a government-run enterprise. Encased in a charming glass-fronted dining room you can enjoy lobster, spicy chicken and succulent fish – all excellent, if a little overzealous with the garlic.
Ranchón Bellamar (Map; Av 1 btwn Calles 16 & 17; meals under CUC$5; 10am-10pm) Wedged between the main avenue and the beach, this open-sided thatched ranchón is part of the Hotel Sunbeach. With its cheap lunches and maracas-shaking musicians, it’s a good bet when it’s quiet, though the staff struggles to cope if the clientele hits double figures.
FM–17 (Map; 61-48-31; cnr Av 1 & Calle 17; 8am-2am) With more local vibe than most Varadero visitors ever see, this simple place has sandwiches and burgers for CUC$1 to CUC$2, plus a free cabaret show nightly at 9pm.
Restaurante El Criollo (Map; 61-47-94; cnr Av 1 & Calle 18; noon-midnight) This is one of the more enjoyable state-run places serving what its name suggests, typical comida criolla. Give it a whirl for a lazy lunch.
Lai-Lai (Map; 66-77-93; cnr Av 1 & Calle 18; meals CUC$6-8; noon-11pm) An old stalwart set in a two-story mansion on the beach, Lai Lai has traditional Chinese set menus with several courses. If you’ve been craving some wonton soup, crave no more.
Restaurante Mesón del Quijote (Map; 66-77-96; Reparto La Torre; noon-midnight) Next to a statue of Cervantes’ famous Don who seems to be making off rather keenly toward the all-inclusives, this restaurant is one of the eastern peninsula’s only non-resort options. Perched on a grassy knoll above the Av las Américas, its Spanish-tinged menu makes a refreshing change from the all-you-can-eat buffet.
Restaurante La Vega (Map; 61-47-19; Av de la Playa btwn Calles 31 & 32; noon-11pm) They’ve diminished the seating at this place to a few tables on a wraparound porch, but the paella’s still good, along with the tempting flan al ron (crème caramel with rum; CUC$3) and strong coffee. Connected to the Casa del Habano, there’s an upstairs cigar lounge for after-dinner smokes (replete with beach views).
Restaurante Esquina Cuba (Map; 61-40-19; cnr Av 1 & Calle 36; noon-11:45pm) Notable for the 1950s-era soft-top that sits regally in the middle of the dining room, this place was one-time favorite of Buena Vista Social Club luminary, Compay Segundo. The man obviously had taste. With lashings of beans, rice, plantain chips and chicken, the food here has the aura of Havana’s famous El Aljibe (Click here). Great Cuban ephemera line the walls, including black-and-white photos of Varadero back in its Mafia hangout heyday.
Ranchón El Compay (Map; Av de la Playa &